[The Radium King]

caster is not adjustable on these cars, so it's just camber and toe. front camber adjustment is the three bolts at the strut top, at the rear it's an eccentric bolt on the lower control arm. toe is just turnbuckles on the toe control arms.

fyi, pulling strut top in = pushing lower control arm out = more negative camber = better for turning.

not a lot of camber adjustment on the front, so just slam the tops in as far as they will go; if lucky you will get -1.5; outside of spec but better performing and not noticeable on the street (will help with the tire wear you are experiencing). a camber gauge ($100 on ebay) will let you check and, if so inclined, set the two sides equal to each other. changing camber will affect toe, so a $100 set of toe plates off ebay will let you adjust to your liking (factory toe recommendations are good until you are well down the slippery slope of suspension mods).

at the rear, folks like to run camber about .5 less than the front, so if you are getting -1.5 at the front, try to get -1 at the back. again, camber change affects toe, so you will have to reset your toe once you mess with camber.

don't worry to much about uneven surface, as with a digital camber gauge you can zero the gauge to the floor surface. regardless, the stresses of autocross, potholes, etc., will cause drift in the alignment that outstrip any deviation in your work surface. what i have noticed, however, is that any change in camber requires that the car 're-settle', so roll it around, take it for a drive, etc.; professional alignment rigs are better for this. toe is more forgiving and a quicker adjustment, however insure that you do equal toe adjustments to each side (toe plates just measure overall toe, not toe on each side) otherwise your steering wheel will go off-centre.