Well - I DID IT
Not too bad - went in from trunk and top of engine.
I only put back around 3 gals - so I don't think I emptied the whole system. Probably because Car was on ramps -so low at front. Used the Swaben vacum/purge kit to refill and all seems good.
I think this part was designed on a Friday afternoon during Cannstatter Volksfest (big Stuttgart beer festival).
Guess which one leaks?