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MNBoxster · 08-24-2006, 11:23 AM

Hi,

First thing I would do is replace the Fuse and the Relay, even if the current ones seem to be OK.

Next, dismantle it and apply 12V DC to the Actuators, if they work, that's not your problem.

Next, using a Digital Multimeter (never use an Analog one on a car with micro-electronics), check your connectors to see if you are getting 12V power to it.

Next, retrace all the wiring from the Manual Switch (assuming you did the Hack) to insure that no wiring has chafed and is possibly intermittently shorting to ground. Absent having performed the Hack, do a Continuity Test on the OEM Manual Switch to insure that it isn't shorting out.

If still No Joy my suspicion is that it may have more to do with the DME and/or Speed Sensors. This is because you have had the MIL at speeds under the regulated deployment speed. This MIL lights on engine start-up until the vehicle is moving and the DME can speed-calibrate itself (usually after reaching 3MPH) so the deployment actually occurs at 75MPH. If it lights during driving at lower than deployment speed, I suspect this is due to improper, or no, speed signal. This may be why you can manually, but not automatically, deploy it because there is no speed validation required for Manual deployment.

If you have the Durametric Software, you may be able to diagnose this yourself, otherwise I suspect you need to get a PST2 involved as the Speed Sensors use a Hall Effect to signal the DME what speed they're registering, meaning that they must be in proximity to a moving wheel in order to work which is not an environment condusive to working with a Multimeter. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

08-24-2006, 11:23 AM	#5
MNBoxster Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, USA Posts: 3,308	Hi, First thing I would do is replace the Fuse and the Relay, even if the current ones seem to be OK. Next, dismantle it and apply 12V DC to the Actuators, if they work, that's not your problem. Next, using a Digital Multimeter (never use an Analog one on a car with micro-electronics), check your connectors to see if you are getting 12V power to it. Next, retrace all the wiring from the Manual Switch (assuming you did the Hack) to insure that no wiring has chafed and is possibly intermittently shorting to ground. Absent having performed the Hack, do a Continuity Test on the OEM Manual Switch to insure that it isn't shorting out. If still No Joy my suspicion is that it may have more to do with the DME and/or Speed Sensors. This is because you have had the MIL at speeds under the regulated deployment speed. This MIL lights on engine start-up until the vehicle is moving and the DME can speed-calibrate itself (usually after reaching 3MPH) so the deployment actually occurs at 75MPH. If it lights during driving at lower than deployment speed, I suspect this is due to improper, or no, speed signal. This may be why you can manually, but not automatically, deploy it because there is no speed validation required for Manual deployment. If you have the Durametric Software, you may be able to diagnose this yourself, otherwise I suspect you need to get a PST2 involved as the Speed Sensors use a Hall Effect to signal the DME what speed they're registering, meaning that they must be in proximity to a moving wheel in order to work which is not an environment condusive to working with a Multimeter. Hope this helps... Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 Last edited by MNBoxster; 08-25-2006 at 12:29 PM.