[jakeru]

I actually haven't installed my Koni sports on the rear yet. Plan to tackle at some point, along with rebuilding rear cv boots, and maybe a clutch job.

But based on other experiences with Koni sports (including knob-adjustable and "remove, compress fully and twist" to adjust style (such as found on the 986 rears), these "off the shelf" shocks are typically engineered to give OE spring (non-M030) stiffness optimized performance in "full soft" (fully counter clockwise) setting, and cover traditional aftermarket lowering type spring rate dampening duty when turned in about halfway or a bit more, say at about +1 to +1.5 turn. The specific tunings of the shocks from model to model will of course vary, and truth be told, in my opinion based on lots of suspension tuning and shock adjustments for several cars running Koons, including some competing successfully at national-level SCCA solo competition, the most important thing the adjustable Koni sport setup can provide, in my opinion, is to be able to dial-in the ratio of front to rear roll stiffness (or "roll coupling"), and all you need to do this is for one end of the car to be adjustable (e.g. Externally knob-adjustable to "dial in" based on iterative feedback), as long as you don't run the shock adjuster all the way into the full soft or full stiff limits of the adjuster (and still need to go further ), you can always dial that one adjustable end of the car in as needed to optimize the front-rear roll couple and achieve the desirable neutral handling characteristic.

So, taking a stab at setting the rears in approximately the setting you think you'll want to be at isn't scary at all to me, and here is how I'd generally approach it...

I would suggest something around + 1/4 turn for stock, non-m030 springs. +3/4 turn for US-M030. + 1.25-1.5 turn for aftermarket lowering or ROW-M030. Assuming the adjustment range maxes out around +2.5 turns. (If different adjustment range, scale the adjustment range proportionally.)

That should give you some leeway to adjust the other (front) end, either in the softer direction (to counter too much push or understeer, and promote tail-end rotation), or firmer (to tame a tail-happiness and tendency for car to spin/oversteer). And you would do this as often and iteratively as you'd like, since adjustments are so accessible. You can easily adjust them them to make fine-tuning adjustments required for different tires, tire wear, tire pressures, or suspension alignment configurations, any change you make tot he car that upsets the front-rear weight bias, or front or rear spring rate, etc. Sure, you can get fancy adjusting shocks in many other differemt ways, e.g., double or triple adjustable and independent rebound and compression, and spend thousands of dollars on such a setup, but IMO, thie basically ability to dial in basic understeer/oversteer with turn of a couple knobs (accessible at front under the frunk) is a huge benefit for performance application, IMO, and the inexpensive, off-the-shelf rebound adjustable Koni sports really economically deliver on this benefit.

The reason I don't suggest setting up the "hard to adjust" rears up +0 turns under any situation, at least from the get-go, is you run more risk of having a situation of excessive push (understeer) that you can't easily dial out by adjusting the fronts (particularly, once you adjust the fronts to full soft, you run out of ability to adjust them any further softer, and assuming Koni tuned the shocks roughly correctly, there is a good chance you would be running the fronts at around very close to full soft, so you're risking running into the adjuster's limit if you seek to dial-in or fine-tune.

Just my 2c, opinions may vary, this is a short-cut / generalization... hope it helps, though!