Quote:
Originally Posted by fridsten
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Q:Where is the air intake?
A: Back panel, middle-left side. Is not an intake, its an opening. The fan act as exhaust.
Q: how do you make sure it's not blocked in any way?
A: I don't. You get to do this! Although not exactly sure what you mean by that
Q: a lot of cooler air behind it, which will be used for cooling?
A; Doesn't need to be "cooling" specifically. I do advise on air circulation however. Refer to previous thermal model to know the air volume you'll need to equalize the temp in the unit.
Lastly, on the subject of 'cooling';
Auto makers already design their vehicles for console cooling, that is how they get away with dash electronics cooling in most of today’s vehicles – also to prevent ears from popping violently when opening the windows (neutral pressure eq). Mostly passive and relying on buoyancy (although not exactly sure how they manage the latest in a 'n' shaped dash, secret I guess). Your cabin/dash is not sealed water tight but you guys knew that already.
Because our kit is The-Best-in-the-World, ours absolutely NEEDS active cooling! Really depends what you do with it tough, if for listening music or for deco only (1~2watts CPU usage max) then passive cooling is sufficient. I’ve plugged in the active cooling for “Ultimate Performance” reason as I (personally) plan on beating the CPU in many ways (real-time OBD fast query and data logging, listening to police radios + FM radio simultaneously (with my newly acquired UV HF RTL-SDR tuner!!!), and/or while encoding H.264 media, etc etc… All At The Same Time
if I need! You get the idea
But again; Intel chip… it comes with factory built-in protection e.g. start throttling at 80dC and auto shutdown at 90dC. Gives you an idea of what this little devil can withstand
