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BirdDog · 04-28-2017, 09:43 PM

Jay

My recommendation is to do what JFP said. I agree with him 100%.

Having said that, you could do what Jamesp mentioned and replace the IMS and do multiple oil changes to flush any metal out of the engine.

I don't recommend doing this...

...but if you do go this route, be sure NOT to install an LN ceramic bearing. I'm pretty sure that they don't have seals (depend on sump oil for lubrication) and will definitely go BOOM if ANY metal hits them, so use a standard 6204 steel, sealed bearing (preferable the one that Jamesp recommended).

You can increase your chances of success by installing an LN oil filter adapter so that you can use spin on filters which will not allow oil to bypass the filter like the stock filter. Plus a magnetic drain plug will help pull metal out between the very frequent oil changes you'll have to do.

Your best bet though is to source a replacement engine, and while it's out replace the IMS bearing. Just be sure it can pass a pre-qualification inspection (no metal in sump or filter) before you spend the money on an IMS replacement.

The other option is to have your current engine rebuilt, but this requires a complete tear down and the replacement of thousands of $$ worth of parts and thousands of $$ in labor to make sure that all the metal particles are cleaned out. I went this route 3 years ago with my engine and it cost just under $15K (that included installation of an IMS Solution and various minor upgrades, like racing connecting rod bolts, etc). They did a fantastic job and I've never regretted doing it, but it can be a difficult decision to spend that kind of money on a car that (on a good day) might only be worth that much (or less).

One final thing - the metal might not even be from your IMS bearing!

In my case, my IMS bearing was fine - oh, it was on it's way out (all grease washed out), but still had some life left in it - the metal was from my main timing chain (from crankshaft to IMS). The chain had stretched SO MUCH that you could have taken a link out of it and it would still have been loose, even with the tensioner paddle at full extension. The chain was basically beating the hell out of the top of the tensioner paddle and had worn off the anti-friction pad and was shedding aluminum from the paddle itself. Luckily, none of that metal made it past the oil filter, but it was still circulating from splashing up from the sump (so all 5 timing chains, ramps, valve train, etc were seeing it). It was a miracle that my engine hadn't gone BOOM (we have no idea why it didn't go BOOM). But the gurus at Flat-6 were able to save it, and I'd do it all over again in a heartbeat. My car has never run better!

Good luck with whatever you decide to do! We all feel your pain brother!

Bill

04-28-2017, 09:43 PM	#4
BirdDog Registered User Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 419	Jay My recommendation is to do what JFP said. I agree with him 100%. Having said that, you could do what Jamesp mentioned and replace the IMS and do multiple oil changes to flush any metal out of the engine. I don't recommend doing this... ...but if you do go this route, be sure NOT to install an LN ceramic bearing. I'm pretty sure that they don't have seals (depend on sump oil for lubrication) and will definitely go BOOM if ANY metal hits them, so use a standard 6204 steel, sealed bearing (preferable the one that Jamesp recommended). You can increase your chances of success by installing an LN oil filter adapter so that you can use spin on filters which will not allow oil to bypass the filter like the stock filter. Plus a magnetic drain plug will help pull metal out between the very frequent oil changes you'll have to do. Your best bet though is to source a replacement engine, and while it's out replace the IMS bearing. Just be sure it can pass a pre-qualification inspection (no metal in sump or filter) before you spend the money on an IMS replacement. The other option is to have your current engine rebuilt, but this requires a complete tear down and the replacement of thousands of $$ worth of parts and thousands of $$ in labor to make sure that all the metal particles are cleaned out. I went this route 3 years ago with my engine and it cost just under $15K (that included installation of an IMS Solution and various minor upgrades, like racing connecting rod bolts, etc). They did a fantastic job and I've never regretted doing it, but it can be a difficult decision to spend that kind of money on a car that (on a good day) might only be worth that much (or less). One final thing - the metal might not even be from your IMS bearing! In my case, my IMS bearing was fine - oh, it was on it's way out (all grease washed out), but still had some life left in it - the metal was from my main timing chain (from crankshaft to IMS). The chain had stretched SO MUCH that you could have taken a link out of it and it would still have been loose, even with the tensioner paddle at full extension. The chain was basically beating the hell out of the top of the tensioner paddle and had worn off the anti-friction pad and was shedding aluminum from the paddle itself. Luckily, none of that metal made it past the oil filter, but it was still circulating from splashing up from the sump (so all 5 timing chains, ramps, valve train, etc were seeing it). It was a miracle that my engine hadn't gone BOOM (we have no idea why it didn't go BOOM). But the gurus at Flat-6 were able to save it, and I'd do it all over again in a heartbeat. My car has never run better! Good luck with whatever you decide to do! We all feel your pain brother! Bill __________________ 2001 Boxster S - Speed Yellow, Black Leather, Tiptronic, Jake Raby rebuilt 3.2 with IMS Solution Last edited by BirdDog; 04-28-2017 at 09:46 PM.