Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster
The vacuum process for refilling is rather exacting. Which Instructions did you follow?
I ask because if for example you did not set the heater controls correctly, that may be the cause.
Also if you accidentally let the AirLift tube suck air because it emptied the coolant container.
If you did not completely drain all the coolant before pulling the vacuum.
It is a really tedious process that becomes even more tedious if you fail to follow precisely the correct set of Instructions.
One piece of advice I could not find and maybe JFP would know-
if you get the system almost full - but still have say a quart of coolant left over(- a small airlock somewhere?)
- is it wise to drive with the burp valve open , hoping this will allow the air bubble to purge itself ? Or perhaps run the engine with the rear jacked up to achieve the same objective ?
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When you drain these systems, you never get all the old coolant out; at best you are replacing about 85% of the coolant. If the system is tight, and the Uview is used correctly, no other steps are required (e.g.: burping, jacking the car up, etc.). When we do a coolant replacement, we evacuate the system down to 25-26 inches of vacuum, let the car sit for 15-20 minutes to check for tightness, premix the factory coolant with distilled water in a clean 5 gal pail, drop in the Uview hose, and slowly open the fill valve. When the vacuum gauge drops to zero, the system is full and no further steps are required. There is always some excess coolant mix left over, which we put in one of the original coolant gallon bottles, marking it premix with the date, and give it to the owner in case he should ever need it. In reality, we extremely rarely ever need to readjust the coolant level in one of these vehicles once they are recharged, but as the owner paid for the coolant, it is his to take with him/her.