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Old 10-27-2016, 11:50 PM   #14
Smallblock454
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,456
Hello Rick,

some things i would like to add:

1.) If you can get vented discs without drilled holes or slots – these are the best from a brake POV if you don't race in wet conditions. Maximum friction surface, minimum / no risk to crack. You only need drilled or slotted brake discs to improve response of the brake in rainy / wet conditions.

2.) If some say their brake pads start to brittle after a while, than in general these brake pads got too hot.

3.) Best way to get a "cheap good" brake is to reduce the weight of the car and improve the cooling of the brake. Also it's important to learn where the limits of the brake system is. Because a brake in race condition is always only as good as the driver treats it. If you need more brake power you need a bigger brake surface. In general this means bigger brakes (diameter and thickness). But this also means more weight (if you use conventional steel brake discs). And to much weight is always bad, because a car drives better when the unsprung masses are minimal.

4.) Some sport / race brake pad manufacturers offer diagrams, so you can see where are the pros and cons of the brake pads. Because brake pads are always a compromise.

Example Brembo diagrams for HP 1000 and HP 2000 brake pads:



5.) Only buy from trusted suppliers. There is many fake stuff out there. Personally i don't buy brake stuff from ebay.

Happy racing
Markus

Last edited by Smallblock454; 10-27-2016 at 11:53 PM.
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