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Old 08-15-2016, 07:00 PM   #19
jakeru
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Greater Seattle, WA
Posts: 534
Picture? I also like the "weld a nut/bolt to it" idea, but then again I have a TIG welder, so it doesn't seem like that big a deal.

Steel is more in the range of being, at the very least 40k psi tensile strength (and more likely, around 60k-70k psi). So epoxy at about 1/10th the strength is a bit better than duct tape/bubble gum solution, but not close to what the car came with here from the factory. I'd monitor it regularly for breakage if you did something like that - it might actually hold. It just wouldn't seem like a very quality repair for anyone else who had to work on it.

Heck, you could TIG weld the aluminum hole up and re-tap that if you needed to. I'd use 5356 filler rod if I did that, and drill a nice big, clean hole to clean out any old contamination. Minimize the welding to minimize the thermal distortion. Keeping the shock from getting very hot would also be warranted.

If you prefer a high-quality, bolt on solution, replacing the wheel bearing carrier with a good used one might be a good call.

This sort of bolt is a perfect scenario for using anti-seize on the threads, by the way (to prevent future thread galling and seizing.) I put anti-seize on all these sorts of bolts I encountered when I did my suspension rebuild, so no one will ever have the sort of problem you're having. Best of luck!
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