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Old 02-01-2016, 03:53 PM   #15
flaps10
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 430
Okay so over a month later here is my update.

I got my (newer style, white) ignition switch installed. Didn't do anything.

I've read that the key needs to be cycled, used in the door, top up and windows closed. Whatever that ritual is I tried that too. It was crunch time (I was moving) so I used my road side assist and had the car flat bed hauled to my new house.

I started back in a week ago:
-Battery on charger again. Tops off nicely and holds a charge whether hooked to the car or not.

-checked all my fuses. Not only that the ones present weren't blown, but that they were all present, unblown and of the correct listed capacity.

-swapped relays in the left rear of the trunk. No change. Replaced the start inhibit relay and ECU relay with brand new. Unchanged. Of note, the one time I heard the starter "bump" was with the starter relay (it's actually a "start inhibit relay" if I read correctly) pulled out and I turned the key. This tells me my starter is not dead (and it worked perfectly when I parked the car, as in cranked really well).

-went back in and pulled my alternator to verify that I did the connections on the back of it correctly. Did.

-got real careful about those fuses. Checked fuse E1 several times. Replaced it anyway.

-Pulled the immobilizer and checked the fuse. Perfect. Pulled the connections off and hosed them out with contact cleaner even though they looked immaculate. No change.

-bought Durametric. It pulled some I32 alarms (25 for W lead, 34 for interior sensor, 60 for something else that slips my mind at the moment). Poured over the wiring diagrams and the codes and determined that all three of those pins are next to each other on the immobilizer plug. Hmm.

-Pulled the seat out and went back over the connectors. They're super clean.

-replaced my key battery.

-Followed the manual diagnostics. It points to fuse F 5/1 of which there isn't one. I think someone else posted something about this being a manual typo and it is fuse E1. If so that is some serious spaz fingers, but that's what I'm going with as there is no row F. Anyway, fuse E1 is nice and pretty.

-manual sez check power from E1 to ground, which displays battery voltage (correct result).

-manual sez check resistance from pin 16 on immobilizer to pin 86S on my new ignition switch. (result is 1.6 ohm, less than the 5 allowed).

-manual sez check voltage on ECU, plug 1, pin 3 (correct result, should be zero).

-manual sez check resistance from ECU plug 1, pin 3 to immobilizer pin 23 (result 1.4 ohms, again less than the 5 allowed).

- put my jumper back in the clutch switch just in case. No change.

My car was parked in my garage where it stayed dry. My car has never been even damp inside in my presence, nor is there any sign of such.

It seems inevitable that I'm faced with the trio of ECU/Key/Immobilizer. I read somewhere about using Durametric to re establish connection between these units but I don't see anything that sophisticated in Durametric.

Found a place online that will take all three and do a diagnosis. They're in Florida. Can anyone out there vouch for this place or is it something I should run away from?
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