[arthrodriver]

Good stuff here. The beam type torque wrench is very reliable, and cheap to buy, but it will be impossible to read in (guessing) half your applications, whereas you can hear or feel the clicker reach its target. Thirty years back I bought an HFrt clicker. It fell apart within a week. But I have had good results with most of the tools I buy there. When that wrench failed I bought Crafstman 25-250 lb ft unit and it has never let me down. I always turn it back to zero as advised in the owners sheet. It has never been recalibrated (my bad). With it I tighten 220 ft lb axle nuts. I also have a kd tool 3/8 inch pound clicker and recently bought an HFrt 5-29inch pound unit ( how can you pass ?$10 with coupon).
Items of interest . America Tire here in Vancouver WA has offered to check my big wrench although I have not done it. Also if you google, there are several diy calibration check techniques which hang a weight on your wrench and look at the reading. The cost of calibration may motivate a person to consider replacement, I don''t remember.

BTW, QMULUS is right about fasteners. There is a science and it should not be winged. Basic charts online and elsewhere are available to properly identify the fastener tensile strength, SAE and Metric . If you do not have the mfgr's torque callouts you can measure the shank, read the head (tensile strength) , allow for any lubricant you are using and derive the proper torque setting. No excuse not to do this. And if you are dealing with the TTY (torque to yield) variety of fastener spend a little time understanding what they are and follow the torque/turn sequences if applicable. Your car will thank you