Riveted??? I think you have to read more or get out more :-)
Bearing Autopsy and some other random thoughts...
So bearing is out and has been living in a septic tank for a while. It smells bad.
Simple double row ball bearing with plastic outer seals. The bearing turns nice and smooth, no feeling of a gritty nature. I popped the seals out and there is ZERO grease inside and the balls are a bit "brown-ish" so you know that have been running with the gunky oil inside for a while. If you look to the 2-3 o'clock position, you can see the wire ring that is used as a keeper to hold the bearing in it's proper location. There is a bevel or lead on the shaft to shrink the keeper into the groove in the bearing OD and then it pops out into the groove in the shaft when you install it, staying somewhat centered to hold the bearing from drifting AND holding the shaft in place as well via the bearing stud.
Not a good situation! My thinking on the gunky oil is that it just sits in the shaft hollow and cooks. When I loosened the nut on the original bearing, the stud part was sucked into the shaft with a pop. This was a surprise and it took a bit of time with a magnet to fish it back out thru the bearing to mount the puller. The heating and cooling if the air in the hollow is what sucks the oil in and because it can hold a good vacuum while cold the oil isn't getting out. So it sits in there, getting heated and re-heated and the volatiles just get cooked out and ruins the oil. When it's hot, I guess some of the oil gets pushed out into the bearing melting the grease and putting in some grit. this cycle just continues and when the oil is changed, this cooked oil can't drain out. The shaft hollow was not full but had maybe 1/2" of gunky oil in it. If I had been thinking way in advance, I could have caught a bunch of this oil and sent it out to Blackstone for analysis. This might have been interesting data to see and digest.
When getting ready and doing the disassembly, taking the 2 chain tensioners out of the engine. This is a 5 chain engine so you remove the chain tensioner on the pass side that goes in vertically and the IMS chain tensioner on the drivers side that goes in horizontally. The tensioner for the IMS chain did NOT pop out upon removal! The vertical tensioner nearly shot out, so I sat and looked at it and then began wiggling the moving part and it then popped out. The moving pin (for lack of a better description) has a flat machined on it and that flat must stop somewhere up the pin where it stays as a round shape. There is obviously a spring in there behind the pin and some seals and stuff too as it's hydraulically activated as well. The body is cross drilled and the pin is pushed in with the spring behind it and a solid steel tiny little pin is drive thru to trap the big moving pin inside of the tensioner body. Well, from sitting in the horizontal position the little pin has worn a bit of a notch into the big pin and that was catching it in place. So the IMS chain might not have been tensioned properly when running. I ordered a new tensioner to replace this one and they are not big $$, somewhere in the $110 range.
The trans is 16" tall so this work can certainly be done on the ground in your garage and not have to lift the car too high.
I will take a few pics of the tensioner later and add them.