Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Doing it the way you describe, you are really not going to get an idea of how smooth or loose the bearing is as the center bolt will still be under some load with the flange cover in place unless you unload the shaft, so you may not even be able to move it after just removing the nut.
If you are not going to replace the bearing, I would do one of two things: Lock the engine and cams, remove the flange and test the bearing, then remove the rear seal from the bearing so it can lubricate and put the car back together; or just leave it alone as it is.
To find out what kind of condition the bearing is in, you are going to be 95% of the way to replacing it, so you really need to think through what you want to do here. You really don't want to be kicking your self two months from now about not having replaced the bearing when you had the chance.
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Can't argue with that logic. I'm cheap, so I don't want to invest at least $800 extra for the LN bearing (assuming I can beg or rent the installation tools for cheap), on a car that has 150,000 k miles on it (with the original clutch).
But on the other hand, I will be spending lots of money replacing clutch parts (clutch plate, PP, RB, pivot, guide tube) that are going to last another 100k miles on a car I bought four years ago for $7500.00. Motor still runs strong, transmission in great shape, I intend to run it until the motor fails, so the new bearing makes sense.