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Old 07-31-2015, 05:56 PM   #4
EJ-Fresno
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 520
Garage
Thanks Jakeru, I followed your advice and it worked perfectly!
The nut is now fully tight

Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
If that's a brand new balljoint you stripped, I feel for ya! (I hope it's the old one having a tough time coming out)

Anyhow, driving with 1/8" slop in this fastener (or anything less than good and tight, really) does not seem safe. This joint goes through a lot of vibrations and transfers a lot of load when cornering.

To add some friction to the conical surfaces so you can unscrew the nut without needing to counter hold via the internal spline, try jacking on the underside of the balljoint to load the joint some. No need to add crazy loads - enough to just start compressing the strut a bit I seem to recall was adequate for when I did some boxster suspension rebuilding work here recently. (This is especially useful in the rear where the cv joint gives even less clearance than the front for accessing the balljoint splines.) To keep the jack from mangling your brake heat shields, you can use a 2x4.
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2003 2.7 Boxster - Tiptronic - Carrera wheels - OBC - Red calipers - Cat pipes - Modified muffler - Rear speakers - K&N - Litronics
2006 V6 Mustang
2008 ML 350
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