Thread: ? for epiqtodd
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:45 AM   #2
EPIQTodd
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 259
Mach Schnell - just now saw your private message, 4 days late. Not sure why I wasn't notified it was there, I just saw that my Private Messages had one in the inbox. I did reply to you, but might as well put it here, too.

There's no need to destroy your OEM shifter knob, but if you are as impatient as me, you will destroy the stupid plastic locking mechanism. Here's a tip - follow the instructions and turn the lower lock nut (plastic) counterclockwise 45 degrees, then pull like hell to get it off, but slowly, not jerking motions. Brace your arms against the center console or something that gives you leverage. Believe that the 45 degrees is right, don't go for 90 or more like I did, as it ended up just destroying the plastic piece with my pliers. It really is on there good, so you have to pull harder than you might think, but it won't destroy the shifter or the boot at all, just maybe the plastic lock piece, and whenever I figure out how to get just one of those, I will buy one for myself and supply the rest of the 987 owners with them too. STUPID design. 986's had a more precise and durable mechanism.

Regarding 'shifting problems', I had more with the stock unit, with its super-soft action. It's nice to have a silky smooth travel and gear connection sometimes, but I wanted something more precise and agressive so I knew what gear I was in, and the shorter throws are a must. I'd like them even shorter if possible, but it's fine as is.
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Todd

2005 Boxster S - Atlas Grey/Black, PASM, Sport Chrono, Bose
2006 Infiniti M35 Sport
2007 Cadillac Escalade (tow vehicle with bling)

'00 Boxster - 2.7l w/FVD ECU tuning, Moton double adjustable suspension, custom stainless headers, lightweight flywheel, dual Magnaflow mufflers, 18" CCR wheels, 911 front brakes in front, Boxster front brakes in rear, full welded cage.

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