[Qmulus]

Just because the engine control module is out of the system doesn't mean the rest of the components on the CAN bus won't work. Well, maybe if it needed to be terminated, but that is just a resistor to add. Everything is in parallel on the CAN bus, so removing one component won't bring it all down. The ABS will still work (although it will not be able to tell the motor to reduce torque, if this ABS system does that - do you have PSM?), whatever is left of the HVAC will work (although with no engine to create hot coolant or turn the AC compressor it can't do much...), the airbag system should be fine (just my opinion, don't blame me if it for some reason it doesn't). There will be fault codes because the different modules won't see expected messages, like the HVAC will want to see coolant temp, but does it matter if there is no coolant? I don't think so. No, you will not be able to use the existing drive by wire pedal without modification, unless by some chance the EV system you have uses potentiometers that are calibrated the exact same way. That is NOT a CAN thing, these are discrete analog signal wires to the DME.

I can understand that motor RPM would be good to know. Ideally you would have the electric motor control send the CAN RPM message in "Porsche" format. To figure out that message takes the reverse engineering. You may find other messages would be helpful as well, but that will only come once you dig into it. This is work you are will likely need to do yourself, as it is specialized and expensive. From experience I can say that unless you are fabulously wealthy (or fabulously eccentric) and this is just a toy you are making that has to be right, I highly doubt you would want to pay what someone would charge to figure this all out and program it up. I can also say that I have never seen anyone go to the expense or trouble to do it all "right". Generally, they get the motor in the car, start driving it, and that is it. The easiest and most straightforward (albeit ugly in my opinion) way to get motor RPM is to leave in the original engine control and wire a crank position sensor to read the motor RPM from the flywheel or some 60-2 wheel you put on the motor shaft. ANYTHING other than that is going to be a big job.

Perhaps there are folks in EV forums that have done all of this already and can help you more. Finding those people would be my suggestion. Maybe they even use the fuel gauge to display charge state and calibrate the OBC to give correct range. Hmmm...