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Old 05-08-2015, 09:29 AM   #148
flaps10
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 429
I've been driving the car a few days now. It has about 160 miles of mixed driving and it runs great. No new problems of any kind.

I still have the smallest of coolant leaks on the oil pump/coolant housing. Where I had initially thought it was the square lid I could now swear that I can see coolant "weeping" from porosity in the casting. This is the same oil pump housing I had before, so I'm not sure why it would choose to start in now.

I'm going to start with a stone cold, very dry engine in good light and see if I can find where it is coming from for sure.

Uh, so a few other things.

I had firm plans to upgrade the exhaust, had pondered an underdrive pulley - perhaps combined with an a/c delete, and then the 987 snorkel, 996 throttle body and 997 intake T. Based on the concessions I made (not doing crap about my heads, cylinder bores/rings/pistons) I decided that extracting additional power would be counter-indicated (read: a really dumb idea and waste of money).

I did decide to do the Fister mod from FD motorsports, since it sounds incredible and is less money than a Borla, etc. I had my muffler all wrapped up and ready to ship off prior to my surgery but it was not a top priority. Once I was finally able to work on the car it became a larger priority to see if all the work I had put in was a complete waste of time or not. An exhaust system can wait, and is of cro-magnon difficulty level.

Now that I've driven it some, I'm even more convinced that the exhaust is an early change. That and an alignment job.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOTLEG View Post
Flaps,
Your #135 pic is a look up the backside with your jack stands on either side. Did these provide sufficient height to allow engine trans drop?
What you see in that picture is an intermediate height. It is high enough to get the transmission out and to do any work needed under the car.

It is not high enough to get the engine out from under the car, nor to rotate it 90 degrees which needs to be done during install. For that I jacked the car up maybe another 6" at the bumper.

Once I got the engine ready to lift straight up, I lowered the car back to the position you see here. No sense lifting the engine any higher than needed, and having the car sit more level would be a benefit when trying to get the transmission aligned and mated up.
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