[Jake Raby]

Thanks a lot for the explanations. I don't have a very mechanical background so I hope you'll excuse my perplexity.

Ok.

In terms of forces acting on engine components, I'm not clear on why forcing the bearing back to center with the pull-out tool differs from the typical operation of the flange.

Because during disassembly, that occurred at the improper crankshaft position that have shifted the shaft within the engine, in a direction favoring bank 1. There's no way to reduce this load, or eliminate it without disassembling the exhaust cam sprocket on bank 1.

Why would the forces from moving the bearing back to center stress the chain more than the usual?

Because the chain is not normally in this position. With mechanical things, if you force them, you will break them, or fracture them and they will break later.

I'm also pretty fuzzy on the shift you describe above when the flange was removed. How exactly would the timing get thrown off? During this shift, are you suggesting a sprocket has skipped a link in one of the camshaft-IMS chains? I'm not sure how the timing could be off otherwise.

Any of the above could have happened, or whats more likely is one of the cams that was on the ramp of a lobe, being tensioned by at least one pair of valve springs twisted when the flange war removed. This is what changed the camshaft position, and then shifted the IMS assembly inside the engine.

Before removing the cam covers, the Pelican Parts article on setting the camshaft timing says to put the engine at TDC and install the camshaft timing tool. This makes sense because the shaft is normally held in place by bearings built into the cover.

Yes, but now you can't do that, since the cams have jumped from the relaxed position.

I'm not currently at TDC, and you don't recommend rotating the crankshaft while the IMS isn't support. The timing tool only fits onto the camshaft heads at TDC, so I'm not sure how to proceed with safely removing either camshaft cover.

You can't follow any procedure online or otherwise, because your scenario is not normal now that the cam timing has moved. No two of these scenarios are the same, so there's no accurate directive.

I'd highly recommend that you seek an M96 engine specialist, your questions and understanding prove to me that you'll be in over your head, or perhaps are already. Moving forward may only cost you more time and money if you decide to tackle this yourself. You could probably do it, but it won't be easy, and the learning curve is 90 degrees.

Someone thats proficient with these engines could re- time the engine in less then 4 hours, more than likely.