View Single Post
Old 05-09-2014, 11:51 AM   #12
Timco
I am my own mechanic....
 
Timco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
OK...Here we go. Looks like I never wrote up the rears.

OK. No Pics, no idea where they could be. Much is the same idea / procedure as fronts.

The axle was very difficult to separate from the hub. I used a 3-point puller and a sledge hammer to separate them. Disconnect at trans. Once the axle is pushed in, slide aside. Do your inner CV boots now.

Then I made this stand off.



Stand off needs to be deep enough to handle the hub & bearing depth when pulling it out.

This, a 3/4" fine thread rod, nuts, washers and the bearing / CV kit from Harbor Freight that has all the cylinder spacers and discs was all I needed. I removed the control arm ball joint to pivot the carrier around as needed. Then used the stand off to pull the bearing & hub out as described in the fronts tutorial but with the rod, bolts and washers, and that stand off. It (standoff) bent twice, thus how beefy I had to make it by just adding steel. (i only stock some mild steels for target frames and hobby stuff).

Reinstall was easy to pull it back in (make sure you freeze it 24 hours) with those spacer cylinders and the flat backer discs. Then retainer & bolts, then pressed (pulled) hub into bearing last. Axle pulls back in with the nut.

Did that make sense?

I have several reinstall pics as well. They are all of fronts, but you can see how they press in & out and what it looks like in there.
__________________
'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost

Last edited by Timco; 05-09-2014 at 12:01 PM.
Timco is offline   Reply With Quote