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@PL-
yes I could have gone the powder coat / rubberized socket method, but again not wihout some immediate expense and the loss of several hrs time to arrange it. But then every time someone else did any work on it, I would have to count on them following directions about using my special socket very gently...
Re: titanium / aluminum
I was a bit concerned about galvanic corrosion between the Ti bolt shoulders and the aluminum bolt seat on the wheel, since there is none of the fancy Optimoly thread lube applied there. The Ti is closer to Al on the galvanic scale than Fe is, but I thought the oem aluminum bolt shoulders might have been for some reason other than just weight. I was assured this would not be a problem, and indeed, it has not been.
Nor have I experienced any galling of the threads where the Optimoly-coated Ti threads insert into the steel hub
Re: stainless
the quality and composition of stainless steel is Much more variable than with Ti, even given nominal grade specs for each. This gave me concern, appropriate or not, about possible failure of the stainless steel bolts if pushed to their limit. And SS, whether you are talking about the more corrosion resistant marine grade 316 or the harder but more brittle grade 402 (and all points in between) is simply not as strong to begin with as either Ti or the oem grade (?8) steel used for lugs. Furthermore, larger diameter ss bolts - our lugs are 14mm- ARE somewhat subject to galling or seizing.
Re: GT3
I have no idea. Had a vague notion they used the old Porsche trick of stud with nut, perhaps Al, mandating replacement at each tightening, but really don't know.
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