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Old 11-27-2013, 09:25 AM   #21
drbodzin
San Diego Boxster
 
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Radium King View Post
solder is not designed for situations where mechanical work is being done (ie, opportunity for wire to bend); better off with a crimp, as well as some support for the resistor leads (they will break if worked also).

bigger power puts out bigger heat - think about a 's' third radiator, 's' oil cooler and, possibly, an intercooler to manage the extra heat you will be making.

take a look at how the kit handles vacuum. it looks to me like a 'blow through' system (as opposed to suck through) where the sc is blowing through the throttle body. this means that the location where the aos normally takes vacuum from no longer works (will be pressurised by the sc). you can draw vacuum from the sc intake, but you probably don't want to be sending a lot of waste oil through the sc. what I've seen on the tpc sc kit is that the aos just dumps to a catch can. this is a viable solution except don't race on my track, as I don't want your car puking oil on the track from an overfull catch can. also, with the catch can method, you no longer have vacuum on your crankcase and what I've read indicates that the piston rings require the pressure differential to work properly.

otherwise, the resistor is a hack to avoid getting an expensive tune. I think the bettor solution is to let the maf do its job and pay the money for a proper tune. apparently the oem injectors are up to the task, and 2.5 headers are easily improved (provided there is room allowed by the sc; with the tpc kit the sc location only allowed the use of 2.5 headers even when installed on a 3.2 which really killed power for the larger engines to the point where folks were getting no hp gain after the install). so, i'm not saying don't do it (FI is cool) but understand the implications and trade-offs. iA was only in business for a year or two, so consider their product accordingly.

ps, if you wish to avoid the smog pump relocation issue, just get your indy to push a 'rest of work' (ROW) tune on your car - removes requirement for smog pump and secondary o2 sensors (and you can start your car without depressing the clutch); takes about 7 minutes. uncertain what your smog testing requirements are, but gonalaus on this forum successfully passed smog in Chicago with a row tune and smog pump deleted.
Thanks for thorough reply.

I will review my solders and determine if they should be redone with crimps. Thanks for that.

I already have the third radiator and larger oil cooler installed. Nothing I've read to this point says a SC needs an inter cooler. Only mentions the need for turbos. But I will keep that as an option should the temps demand it.

I already have headers and performance exhaust. Only thing I haven't done it replace the Cats. Was thinking of the Fabspeed 200 cell cats. But I can't find any reviews online as to whether they had any HP impact. Everything just says they make the "sound" of the exhaust better.

Regarding the vacuum, I will post more info on that later when I get to the tubing install. Maybe more advice can be given then.

I am in CA, so SMOG is more restrictive. Doubt smog would pass here without the air pump. Already got the unit moved and installed.

Should be doing more work on the next few days!
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Miles

1998 Black Boxster (owned since 2001)
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