Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulDash
Here (in Poland) daytime running lights are required year-round. Most people just drive with their low beams on all the time.
How would your projectors work in a situation like that? Any overheating?
I have a set of clear lights that I have to polish up and was thinking of retrofitting your kit at the same time. I'm still not 100% clear on the procedure, though, so if you can please PM with the instructions.
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Nice! Greetings from Shanghai Paul
Changing the xenon bulbs regularly will be your main concern. The manufacturer of the xenon bulb I am including in the kit rates them @ 2,000hrs. That said if you use your car 2 hrs per day, you are likely to need a xenon bulb refresh every two years (according to the manufacturer). In your case, I'd say changing them annually and they should perform at peak efficiency all the time. A pair of H1 Xenon bulbs (35watts ) will cost you a huge $20 each year. Not a crisis!
Bear in mind the complete assembly is made of aerospace 6061 T6 grade aluminum. That type of aluminum conducts heat about 2000 times faster than plastic (PE). The heat generated from the xenon bulb is not a problem and dissipated across the bowl (cast aluminum), the skirt and the bezel evenly. The whole thing effectively acts as a massive heat sink. The assembly runs at 45°C(min) 55°C (max) @ 60min operation. In Fahrenheit that would be 113°F(min) 130°F (max).
Ballasts can sustain the heat they are rated at which is between -40°C ~ 105°C (or 220°F). I've toasted a pair overnight in a enclosed environment (4"X6"X2" toolbox) and picked them up in the morning @ 54°C (130°F). So those passes my quality standards and comply with what the manufacturer swears by. A bad quality ballast can, and will, go up to 80°C ~90°C (175~200).
Regarding the DIY steps required to get this done, please let me know what procedure(s) you are not clear on and I'll do my best to explain in details.