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Old 10-07-2013, 03:41 PM   #12
pjq
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Eastern canada
Posts: 262
Hahaaa, pretty crazy looking eh! It reminds me of a downhill skier in the tuck position.
I was like you afraid of my PORSCHE, didn't want to touch it. But after it had an IMSB failure ...... I had to wake up and snap out of the dream. Its a fine piece of machinery and its hot but ... it is a machine no longer hand assembled.
If you liked those pics here it is again but installing the rebuilt engine. Thats the sears craftsmen pro atv lift under the engine, great purchase.
I had 31 inches of clearance from the bottom of the structural cross member to the floor to slide the engine under the car. I could have done it with 30 inche clearance. i then lowered the car down to the bottom of the house screw jacks (24 inches) then jacked the engine, very slowly due to clearance, back up into its cavity (2 person job or 4 eyes, 6 eyes better).
The original idea was to screw the car up to the required height using the jacks BUT great plans don't always work in practice. The car is relatively light compared to a 10 - 20ton lift, so as I turned the jack the top swivel surface of the jack did not swivel BUT the car started to rotate as I rotated the screw!!!!( so i went to plan B. Plan B was using a 3 ton hydraulic jack ontop of wood blocking lifting on the black structural cross member. I placed a piece of wood in between the top of the 3t jack and the base of the structural cross member. The car is not heavy because the engine is not in it yet so the cross member can handle it.
The screw jacks make for a very sturdy support, much better than the 3t car jacks I have.


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