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Old 08-26-2013, 03:03 PM   #8
993innc
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: At the Beach in NC
Posts: 102
Yes Dag, the motor started albeit difficult. After the first attempt to start and realizing we had fire in the hole, we proceeded to put five gallons of 93 octane and 110 leaded race gas into the tank. The fuel level was low to start so we didn't bother draining the old, just tried to give a kick in the pants to the old.
It started but spun over for quite some time before catching. It idled rough for a few minutes with me working the gas pedal like a kick tom on a drum set
Finally ran long enough to idle by itself, sounded like 5 out of six cyl's running then smoothed out for a while and actually ran to redline on a rev or two, but just didn't want to run well. The check engine light was on so we read the codes and found only one....... an 0300 (or something like that), but was registering a bad cam position sensor. It went into "limp mode" one time, so we cleared the code and it fired up again but only to run rough.......I imagine the cam sensor has something to do with it.

When it ran smooth (at 2k rpm) everyone around thought it sounded pretty good. There wasn't any metal chunks in the oil just typical very faint bearing material. My buddy's friend who is apparently an oil analyst for Pennsoil happened to show up and thought everything looked good. We got the motor to operating temps, waited for the fan to kick on and shut it down to drain the new oil and motor flush. It too looked clean, but dark and mildly muddy from the left over sludge in the system
I did though find a few large pieces of something wedged out of the way in the pan once I got the car home and had it on the lift. A little worrisome, to find chunks this large but again, the old oil nor the new had any fragments floating in it, so I'm thinking this could be a random piece of anyone's guess what.

I don't think it's a flood car, no carfax record of it anyway. The headlights work, top works fine, dash display seems ok, power locks etc work and the ignition key isn't tight and seemed to work fine but I have a new switch electrical portion of the switch coming tomorrow to replace it. Figure I'll start with the easy, work out from there.

So...........I think that covers the big items. Thoughts as to why the blower motor works non stop with no display on the CCU and no radio at all?
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