Quote:
Originally Posted by paulv
The pedal has a pair of potentiometers that are used (this is a typical approach in case one of the potentiometers fails there's still a signal to the DME and the car can "limp" home). I'll tell you what the wiring is for my '07 MY and you can get some ideas from that:
The pedal value sensor has 6 wires in its harness.
First potentiometer -- leads 1 (GRN/BLK); 6 (VIO); 5 (GRN/BRN):
Lead #1 is the ground (provided by DME); Lead #6 is the "wiper" part of the potentiometer; Lead #5 is the "fixed resistance" part of the potentiometer.
Second potentiometer has the same setup: Lead #3 (GRN/GRY) is ground; Lead #4 (GRN/YEL) is the wiper; Lead #2 (RED/VIO) is the fixed resistance.
Sorry I can't help you with the other items. You really need to get a set of wiring diagrams for your car. It's worth buying an AllDataDIY subscription.
HTH
Regards,
paul...
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Great stuff, thank you Paul. So I should be able to get the signal from either pin 4 or 6?
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmods
I could be wrong but I believe the ABS trigger is computerized. You would need to access the raw data of the ECU for those figures. e.g. if the wheel speed is not equal the computer modulates the ABS system until the speed is equalized.
Easier to do with additional components imo. You could think of a linear potentiometer on the brake pedal and a magnetic hall sensor on the wheel. You'd be able to capture your 0~5v and aggregate those to your needs far faster than decoding the manufacturer ABS' computing thing
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I was assuming there was a signal on a wire I could connect to which had a ABS on or off on it
