[MNBoxster]

Hi,

I don't see anything in the Manual about Testing or Adjusting except for checking the Unit for, and resetting, any faults with the PST2. Sounds like a bunch of Bull to me. Although to be fair, the Liability incurred with a Brake Job would make this prudent for a Mechanic to do.

You also want to eliminate the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit (w/ integral Pump)as a possible cause/contributor to the issue. I would have them explain exactly what they're checking or adjusting. A significant change was made to later cars w/ PSM/TC so you want to be sure they're not confused with your specific model.

One easy way to check the booster is to depress the Brake Pedal several times all the way to drain the Vacuum stored in the Booster, then hold the Pedal all the way down. Start the Car, holding the Pedal down, and you should get some near-instant feedback through the Pedal once the Booster energizes. The Pedal should actually apply even harder.

Removal and reinstallation are very straightforward, but you'll also have to Bleed both the Brakes and the Clutch when your finished. On a '99, depending upon the mileage, you might as well consider replacing the Master while you're in there (simple step since you need to remove it anyway to replace the Booster), because a New Booster will lead to failure of a used and worn Master.

I checked the price of the Booster (P/N #996 355 923 00) in ********************************************'s Catalogue and they list it at $301.00 and the Master (P/N #996 355 910 00) at $347 (subject to verification, and maybe cheaper elsewhere).

So, if you're confident that this is the problem, and you sound adept enough, you might forego the Warranty Claim and the $600+ Adjustment and do the work yourself. I know it's a ********************ty Deal, but it seems nonesense to spend $600 to get a free $300 Booster. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99