View Single Post
Old 05-28-2013, 09:03 AM   #10
southernstar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 598
Perfectlap makes a number of valid points. However, from my perspective, some repairs are more important than others:

OEM brake rotors can be purchased at Pelican for about $500.00 for a set; other brands for quite a bit less. So, to me, that would not be a significant factor (especially since rotors tend to need replacement every second brake job).

Yes, the water pumps can fail early; however, many cars seem to have no problems with their original pumps for more than 100,000 miles (and some many more). Certainly, I would rather have an original pump with 50k miles than an aftermarket replacement (which seem doomed to fail pretty quickly).

Coolant expansion tanks and the AOS are weak points and yes, I would be happy to hear that they had been replaced recently if looking to purchase a car. Since these require OEM parts to repair, they should definitely save some money in the long run. However, you must keep in mind that these are not hugely expensive - at an good Indy, you can expect to pay about $400.00 to replace the AOS; $600 to replace the coolant expansion tank.

The MAF and ignition switch are also parts that often need replacement. The latter, of course, is also a relativle inexpensive repair using the Audi switch (about $200.00 including the part) and the former is only expensive if using the Porsche MAF.

Suspension components - depends upon how/where the car was driven, but yes, some cars will be at or near needing replacement as they pass 50,000 miles, while others are able to exceed 100,000. This is an expensive fix but I would want to make sure that some of the cheap Ebay parts were not used in any repairs!

Clutch - again, some owners get well over 100k miles on their original clutch, others as little as 30k. To me, the fact that a car has its original clutch at 50K miles is probably a very good sign that the car was not abused by a bad driver (riding the clutch etc.), or one who liked to make jack-rabbit starts (hard on the CV joints, axles, gears etc.). If at that mileage it is still smooth with a friction point not too high up (and some upper play), it does not need replacement and may not for years to come.

Bodywork and paint are also VERY expensive to repair properly, so that must go into the equation. So too the convertible top, if being installed by a professional.

IMS Bearing - nice if upgraded, to be sure. Especially if the car has a single-row.

And finally, yes, service records - at least for the last several years, are critical on these cars.

Brad
southernstar is offline   Reply With Quote