I got it my Cold Airbox to work! I am using ONLY Cold Air and the FULL WIDTH of the side air duct!
The problem the 'other designs' seem to suffer from, IMHO is that they are taking hot air from the top of the engine bay…where it's the hotter than anywhere (due to heat rising). My Stage 2 design suffered horribly from this dilemma. HOT air = BAD, COLD air = GOOD.
This new design (Stage3) employs a simple 'inverted' cone that is inverse of the Cone Air FIlter. Thereby creating an 'air space' the engine can gulp air from. The Stage3 is held in place by the 'friction seal' against the firewall (I will revise this and make tabs to mount). The ONLY SOURCE for air is the 3"X 5" duct - and it uses the WHOLE thing!
Here is a shot of the engine cavity mold, with the Cold Air Intake mold in place.
Here the airbox is sealing out all the hot air (except this post). Yes, that is duct tape, Needed for this prototype but not used in production.
Here airbox is connected to the 4" silicone tubing.
How the airbox seals up against the firewall.
Here is it in place with NO GAP at the firewall.
TDK, you were right! It makes a HUGE difference between taking "engine warmed air" and the cold air our cars were destined to run on.
This is the third revision of the original design. There will be another that will have "rabbit ears" on it to mount in the engine bay. This is by far the largest air filter that will fit under the hood. It can take a HUGE GULP of air, with fewer restrictions than the factory. Inspired by watching Eric523!
If anyone is interested…I have a mold to make more!
