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Old 04-14-2013, 04:09 PM   #8
shadrach74
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frederick MD
Posts: 658
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsman View Post
In general, prep and a clearcoat are what separates an excellent job from an amateur one. I haven t painted interior plastic or vinyl pieces yet but I d suggest that you use a paint and wax remover FIRST, to clean oil and armoral off as both will prevent good adhesion (amoral is silicone-based and will cause dimples in your paint job! - it is a bodyshops worst nightmare). THEN sand with 320, 400,600. I find wet sanding works best, although it requires wet-specific paper. I believe there are plastic-specific primers that are supposed to improve adhesion and flex a little-maybe a bumper cover product. You could spray-bomb the colour but I d urge you to clearcoat it (if you want shine) with a catalyzed paint. This makes it so much more durable and the shine will last forever-little nicks won t produce chips then, either. Anything out of a spray can won t be as tough. A bodyshop won t charge much and the finish will exude quality. A catalyzed clearcoat can be wet-sanded , polished and waxed too-that s show-car quality!Either way, have fun!

PS 200 grit (220) is quite coarse for plastic and would work best if you want to remove a surface pattern that s molded into it.
Skip the wax remover, if the job is done correctly, the "soft touch" coating that came from the factory will be completely removed. Soak parts in hot water and steel wool off the coating...then wipe down with alcohol; only then are you ready to prime...

I just did mine a few weeks ago.
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