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Steering Wheel has got to come off to remove the switch assembly which (at least on a 98) is a complete assembly with all your stalks - ie you cant just replace one switch. Once the wheel is off (which requires gentle removal of the air bag by removing two Allen head bolts from behind the wheel to dislodge the airbag cover) it will be pretty self evident how to remove the plastic cover and then the switch itself. From memory there are 4 screws in the front of the plastic and then four from the side. Beyond that there is another four holding the switch assembly.
Ps have a look around the Various For sale boards because somewhere just yesterday I saw someone selling a stalk set. May have been this board. Shame for me is I had one (that came out of my SpecBOx) that I couldn't give away so I threw it out.
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