Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimbus117
I bought the fitting kit, it was rubbish. In the end I bought the trim off a member called trieullionaire on RennTech.org for $50, I got a cage with the Pioneer stereo which the trim I bought fits exactly. There is a photo of my installation of the first page of this thread.
The wiring kit that came with the fitting kit was also rubbish, in the end I removed it and bought a new ISO plug and rewired and added the extra wires to the car loom which got rid of the adaptors & mass of wiring. If I want to upgrade in future, the car loom is now standard ISO so never need a wiring kit.
If anyone wants the wiring diagram for a 2003 car, just ask. By the way, you can pick up a 12v+ switched feed from the aircon controller.
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I am just about to start a similar install in my '03, similar to yours.
I have a Pioneer SPH-DA100 waiting to be installed along with a Pioneer GM-D9500F amp. My car also has the cupholder above the a/c panel and I want to relocate the a/c controls to where the CD holders are.
The plan is to take out the CD holders, enlarge the cutout and place the A/C panel there so I can keep the red color bezel.
I have ordered the Connects2 double din kit off eBay. Is this the one you referred to as "rubbish?" They say it is for cars without the cup holder but I figured I can lose the cupholder if necessary.
I also have the Autoleads ISO bypass kit. I have yet to figure out how it routes the speaker connections - the wiring diagram you mention would be a great help.
Are all the speakers powered by the factory amp or is the CR23 head unit powering some of the channels? As I understand it all the speaker connections are present in the multi connector at the factory amp and the bypass harness will plug into the factory amp connector and allow the existing speaker wiring to connect to the replacement amp. But at the head unit end I do not know which speakers get connected to the head unit's amp ouputs. My amp does have the large black connector:
The way it looks on the Bose amp pinout, ALL speakers are connected to it. So if any of the speakers are powered by the factory head unit, there would just be a bypass through the amp. I hate this Bose stuff
My plan is to drive the dash and rear mindranges with the head unit's built in amp and use the new amp to power the door speakers and the sub. I will re wire the Bose "subwoofers" in series to get a 4 ohm load and also dampen the rear enclosure while I'm at it.
I also note that the Pio unit you have has the same front panel design as mine - i.e. the display is not flush with the surrounding black frame. How did you get it to sit flush with the dash - did you have to remove the plastic surrounding frame? Did you simply mount the unit deeper into the dash cavity?