View Single Post
Old 10-02-2011, 04:45 PM   #12
san rensho
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami florida
Posts: 1,591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavor 987S View Post
I can tell from the UOA that the 50 weight is doing it's job, because the zinc and phosphorus are lower than Red Line's content. And wear metals went down with a longer drain interval.

I think a 5 weight is better than a 0 weight because it narrows the gap to 50 and keeps the range tighter. A 0 weight would be good for a very cold climate (when my cars are stored). There are no 10 weight oils that at Porsche approved for the 986/987/996/997.

My car sees a LOT of +6,000 RPM's (shifting).

I'll post my cumulative UOA from the past 4 oil changes one day this week, when I get a chance, and you'll see the data.

Without the UOA's I'd never know that the Red Line 5W40 was a great oil, and the Mobil 5W50 appears to be as good or better.
From the UOAs I've done so far, M1 0-40 is by far the best. P and Z levels consistently above 1000, Moly at 90, always in the middle of the viscosity range. With Mobil 15-50, Z and P were in the 750-850 range, Moly in the 20 range and it had sheared below grade after only 1k miles. Valvoline 20-50 also had low Z, P and Moly, but stayed within viscosity grade.

But to repeat myself, the issue I see is that until you drive your car for about 1/2 hour, its not up to operating temperature, and a 0 weight oil will provide better protection during the crucial warm up period.
__________________
Current car

2000 Boxster 2.7l red/black

Previous cars

1973 Opel Manta
1969(?) Fiat 850 Convertible
1979 Lancia Beta Coupe
1981 Alfa Romeo GTV 6
1985 Alfa Romeo Graduate
1985 Porsche 944
1989 Porsche 944
1981 Triumph TR7
1989 (?) Alfa Romeo Milano
1993 Saab 9000
san rensho is offline   Reply With Quote