Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Topless
Ok I gave this some thought and I think I understand why the motor is on the pressure side of the pump. It creates a higher pressure zone when picking up heat in the water passages which raises the boiling point. A few psi makes a pretty big difference (Boyle's law). Now the T-stat simply acts like an automated valve. When it opens coolant is sent to the radiators and when closed coolant returns to the water pump for recirculation through the motor.
|
Still seems weird to me. As Insite points out, why would you want a system where, when the water (coolant) circulating around the engine gets hot enough to need the radiator action for removing some heat, you then start pulling relatively cool water from the radiator part of the system across the t'stat, presumably causing it to close back down? Sorta defies logic.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Topless
Frodo,
I like the water jet idea a lot. The pulsing action should help to free anything that got lodged internally. As to pressure, you can get a drip system pressure regulator that will bring your hose pressure down to 15-30psi at any garden center or hardware store. Also use a ball valve so you can control the water flow and ramp it up slowly. I might put a catch screen at the other end and take inventory of everything that comes out. You can count the pieces and see if you got everything.
|
Not familiar with your 'drip system pressure regulator' but sounds like it might be worth looking into. As to the valve, you don't think that could be controlled well enough with an assistant slowly opening the spigot the hose is attached to? I'm no engineer---probably already abundantly clear---so I don't really know much about characteristics of the various different kinds of valves.
I had already planned on doing the catch screen thing.
Quote:
Is the water pump able to be swapped without lowering the engine at all?
Originally Posted by
stateofidleness.
I agree with blue, it is doable as a job on its own. Since I was doing the motor mounts at the same time, I think I did raise/lower the engine some when trying to get to the bolts holding the water pump in place. Made it a little easier, but I'm pretty sure I could have done it without doing that. I also worked from inside the car through the access panel behind the seats to get the top bolts. How old is your motor mount? As Pedro (and others) have pointed out, these jobs kind of go hand-in-hand. Doing one kinda makes the other easier.
QUOTE:
Is it a one-man job? I always get pretty paranoid when attempting a job that requires the car to be on jack stands.
Originally Posted by
stateofidleness.
Geez, I know what you mean. I was helping my kid replace a fuel pump in a 1999 Mercury Marquis (his gf's car---I call it 'the starship'), and we had to remove the fuel tank (since that's where the fuel pump lives). I was nervous as hell gettin' underneath this beast of a car sitting on jack stands. I've got lots of lumber layin' around that I'll stack up under strategic support points in case something gives way. If you're removing a wheel, you can also slide that underneath the car. The trick is to make it safe without getting so much stuff under there that you have limited access to get you under there.
As far as the 'one man job' question: I've done everything (so far) by myself.
QUOTE:
I'm also nervous because the jack stand area is like a donut, but the top of the jackstands is a "claw"... (they need some kind of standard here). where do y'all put the floor jack so as not to take up the jack stand spot?
Originally Posted by
stateofidleness
Do a Search on "jack stands"---there's all kinds of recommendations and good advice out there. This is how I do mine...
Jacking the Boxster
...but there's lots of other techniques that can be used. With my system, BTW, note that I don't get under the car with just the jack/4x4 holding it up. One, because there's a small chance the hunk of 4x4 could suddenly crack and, two, I just don't trust a jack that much. I think others would agree with that.