[JoeFromPA]

2-3 hours? Good to know. I'll prepare for a $250 bill (including emissions and inspection).

I'm going to start another thread on this, but I don't think this was the original motor mount on this car. My boxster is a 99, and this motor mount was a solid-face design....according to Pedro's Garage, they stopped using those in 98. Further, the motor mount I removed was a 3 bolt design but MY CAR has 4 bolts in the updated design...the 4th bolt was unused on the motor mount. In addition, the 4th unused bolt that was in the engine was not of a design suitable for use on the motor mount - it wasn't long enough.

Based upon this stuff, I think this motor mount was put on the car sometime in the past and I think they over-torqued the studs back into the chassis.

One of the studs that I stripped out of the chassis was being tightened WITH a torque wrench to 34 lb/ft at the time it popped out.

So I think they were either over-torqued previously or were cross-threaded.

In terms of how to avoid any problems, here's what I learned:

1. Removing the lower coolant holes makes this entire job vastly easier. They are $10 a piece and if it's a good time to do your coolant, do this and replace the hoses simultaneously. It is good maintenance, and will probably save you an hour of frustration working around the hoses.

2. Get a 7mm socket and a 4-6" extension for it on a 3/8" drive (might need a 3/8 to 1/4 converter socket). Remove the studs with the mount, put the mount back on the engine, THEN thread the studs back into the chassis through the engine mount yoke holes. Once fully seated, THEN tighten the nuts on the studs and torque to value.

3. Have a 1/2 socket with a 6" extension and a 15mm socket for the nuts.

4. Buy a 15mm ratcheting wrench - it will make removing the mount from the engine far easier

5. Spray it all with PB Blaster before you start. The bolts may only be spec'd to 34 lb/ft of torque, but good lord are they tight when you are working on jack stands with small tools.

6. Doing the motor mount fits in well with several other jobs, including the aforementioned coolant but also the fuel filter. I'd recommend planning on doing several things at once to make it all alot more worthwhile....

7. The stock 987 motor mount is a great upgrade, but it's still really soft. You can easily twist it in your hands, showing you how much movement you'll get when an engine is hurled into a turn at high speeds. Consider going with a stiffened one unless you are really against vibrations in the cabin. I think a middle-of-the-road stiffened one would've been a wise choice for me.

Hope that helps

Joe