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Old 03-08-2011, 01:54 PM   #9
Spinnaker
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 734
I concur with the "not as easy as they say it is". My switch went out last month, but luckily, I had a replacement one on hand just in case. I tried to start the car and heard a crunch sound. The key just went around 360º with no resistance at all, no starter position. I was able to find a spot where the ignition contacts came on and was able to coast down a hill and bump start the car to get it home.
Getting to the switch wasn't the problem for me, I just couldn't get my arm and hand to contort to the angle needed to hold and turn the mini screwdriver in the limited space to get to the two set screws.
I found a thread that talked about taking out the left side dash panel with the A/C vent and the Light switch in it, and the angled vent piece that the straight one connects to. Then you can reach the switch and screws from the dash level instead of from underneath. The only thing special needed was a short T-15 screwdriver to get to the screws on the side that are next to the door jam. The space between the door and the screw heads is limited, so a regular driver was too long. I bought a longer style T-15 bit and epoxied it to a short wood handle to make a driver that would fit the space. The bit needs to be longer than the regular style short ones because there is another screw in front, under the light switch knob, that is recessed and needs a longer bit to get to it. There is a little tab on the bottom of the light switch knob that you push in to remove the knob, then you can get to the recessed screw. There is a single screw inside the angled vent tube that holds it to the firewall. After you take it out, the angled vent falls out and you have all the room in the world to get to the ignition switch.
Even though you have to remove more stuff, it was a lot easier than trying to do from underneath. The next time I have to do an ignition switch, I'm not even going to try it from underneath.
My new switch went with no problem and worked first time. I was careful to get the half moon key lined up, and tried the key before putting the dash all back together.
I remember another thread that talked about not going on any trips without a spare switch. The next time I order some parts, I am going to order a couple more for spares, they are cheap enough. The one I took out was also a replacement, it had an Audi logo on it. I wasn't having any electrical problems at all, it just went crunch.
I'll put a spare one in the tool kit with the special T-15 and the mini screwdriver for that next special crunch sound. You never know when it will happen next. I'm guessing that my car is on its third one now.
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2000S Ocean Blue Metallic- 116K
3X Water Pump, Clear side markers, Crios Mod, Front engine mount, Flywheel, clutch, RMS, AOS, MAF, serpentine belt, power brake vacuum line, battery, 2X CV boots, Fuel filter, Oil filler tube, 3X ignition switch, 90K service, gas cap

Last edited by Spinnaker; 03-08-2011 at 06:18 PM.
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