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superbuick · 09-23-2010, 01:23 PM

Thanks guys - I also appreciate the links. I will likely stick with a stock clutch just for the sake of simplicity - the car is a "Daily driver" (during the spring/summer/fall) and I have no intention of increasing power or modifying the motor, so I like to think it'll hold up fine. I'm a good (excellent?) driver of stick in general having driven them for a decade exclusively on the road and have thousands of laps on track as well with stick shifts, so I believe I should be able to get maximum lifespan from an OEM clutch. We bought the car with 24k (has 44k now) and everything about the clutch feels fine, but as you mentioned, who knows if it goes tomorrow - I have no idea how the previous owners drove the vehicle though the durametric shows a good amount of level 3 ignitions (redlines) so I have to wonder about how hard it was driven prior to my ownership (though condition wise the PPI showed the car to be excellent....)

Thanks for the help getting over the mental hump - spending $600+ to fix something that isnt broken is a tough pill to swallow, even if the labor is "free".

FWIW the RMS will be updated as well as part of the IMS bearing upgrade service.

09-23-2010, 01:23 PM	#8
superbuick Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: MA Posts: 22	Thanks guys - I also appreciate the links. I will likely stick with a stock clutch just for the sake of simplicity - the car is a "Daily driver" (during the spring/summer/fall) and I have no intention of increasing power or modifying the motor, so I like to think it'll hold up fine. I'm a good (excellent?) driver of stick in general having driven them for a decade exclusively on the road and have thousands of laps on track as well with stick shifts, so I believe I should be able to get maximum lifespan from an OEM clutch. We bought the car with 24k (has 44k now) and everything about the clutch feels fine, but as you mentioned, who knows if it goes tomorrow - I have no idea how the previous owners drove the vehicle though the durametric shows a good amount of level 3 ignitions (redlines) so I have to wonder about how hard it was driven prior to my ownership (though condition wise the PPI showed the car to be excellent....) Thanks for the help getting over the mental hump - spending $600+ to fix something that isnt broken is a tough pill to swallow, even if the labor is "free". FWIW the RMS will be updated as well as part of the IMS bearing upgrade service.