Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFromPA
If the OP is going to open up the exhaust (i.e. a single high-flo cat and nice open exhaust path for the turbo) and going to tune it, then the 2.5 liter will hit HARD starting at 2500 rpms on a stock-sized turbo. It will be laying down over 300 lb/ft of torque at 3000 rpms, again on the stock turbo and without fueling mods.
Otherwise, stock, the 2.5t feels fun at 3000 and hits hard at 3500rpms, but doesn't have the "flat on it's arse" feel of the 2.0t below 3000.
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I had an '02 WRX that I modded up to about 300 HP. That thing was fun to drift through corners when the turbo kicked it. I'm not sure how well this would work on the light RWD Boxster though. Isn't this the kind of behavior the original 911 Turbo had with the turbo boost coming on in a rush? That's why those things were widow makers and I suspect that's why Turbos are now AWD. A turbo Box with its mid-engine layout will be better than the old rear engine 911 Turbo, but you'd still run the potential for some extreme oversteer if the turbo hit hard while trying to power out of a corner.
I've been following this thread and personally I'd still opt for a 911 engine if my Boxster S engine failed. I can drop in a 3.4L 300 HP NA engine relatively easy. Compared to a stock STi engine you're pretty much even then. Sure you can mod the 2.5L WRX engine for more power, but you could also do a low pressure (6 psi) system on the 996 3.4L too. Dollar for dollar I think either route will get you about the same thing either stock or modified, but swapping in a Porsche 911 engine should be much more straight forward.
Kirk
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2000 Boxster S - Gemballa body kit, GT3 front bumper, JRZ coilovers, lower stress bars
2003 911 Carrera 4S - TechArt body kit, TechArt coilovers, HRE wheels
1986 911 Carrera Targa - 3.2L, Euro pistons, 964 cams, steel slant nose widebody
1975 911S Targa - undergoing a full restoration and engine rebuild
Also In The Garage - '66 912, '69 912, '72 914 Chalon wide body, '73 914
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