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Old 06-28-2010, 10:29 AM   #10
jhandy
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
When you change camber, you change toe. That is just how these cars are set up. If you look at it before you do anything, you will see why.

If you move anything, you should do it with the cars weight on the tires, BUT the tires need to be on some kind of plate or roller so it can move. otherwise any changes you do will be harder and you then have to factor in the elasticity of the rubber tire you are dragging on the ground, the tire will flex a little before the wheel moves if it is not allowed to roll freely.

Have you ever seen it done on an alingment rack?

There are reference marks on the tow setting bolts and you can buy new camber plates that have refrence marks on them as well. but the aftermarket camber plates should not be used if you have the stock struts.

I took my car to the dealer ( i know, i know they are robbers, but they have the setting numbers i needed) and had them set the car up with the track settings. this eats tires a little more than stock, but the track time is better.

A stock setting helps save tires, but less track grip. It costs too much to change back and forth, and the only way to DIY it yourself is trial and error if you dont have the measuring lasers.

A bad setting may result in a crash when you need grip. You wont know until it is too late. IMHO too risky (costly) to mess around with without the proper tools.
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2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley

Last edited by jhandy; 06-28-2010 at 10:35 AM.
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