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Originally Posted by skadakia15
Mini-update and more questions:
Not the front and rear trunk lights. Tested both of those with the voltmeter at the light socket, no voltage across either of those with the trunks closed.
I attempted to test all the fuses but was not successful. Maybe I am doing something wrong. I unhooked the negative battery cable and set my meter up between the negative terminal and free cable end. This gives me a voltage reading as expected of about 12.8V with the car off. However, nothing in my car works with this setup (i.e. even the lights don't turn on). What am I doing wrong? Is it my meter (it's a cheapie radioshack meter)?
Now with regards to the starter, can this be due to the starter? I don't see why the starter would be drawing any current with the car off.
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a [brief ?] history of checking for batt drain : hook up meter as you have or use a 12 volt test light and lets use an easy car 65 chevy...this car has no problems....there will be no readings from the test equiptment ....now if i open the door i will get a reading [door jamb switch] the lights wont work but the test equiptment is telling me ive found my draw.now lets say the does have a problem and to find it it will start to pull fuses BUT the door jamb switch is open and showing a draw so i find that fuse and pull it that way it wont give me a false reading...i keep pulling fuses until the light/meter goes out..maybe glove box light ...now we go to late model nightmares with 12 volt draw for 5 minutes until the car goes into sleep mode or the alarm system.there are specs for the mil amp draw but you have full batt draw [rag top ? check roof switchs] when the meter drops way down you found your draw just take the fuse for the open door out first....i believe your starter and alt are ok...check ignition switch power outlets ,light switch, make sure key is out of switch...good luck