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mightysquirrel · 09-17-2009, 04:08 AM

I just did my 02 today and there are a few things missing from the otherwise excellent posting Franco pasted earlier.

One is that some transmissions will have a 10mm (or 8mm?) triple square in the lower driver side of the transmission instead of the 16mm that's found throughout. I had to go digging for one and the one's at the local auto parts store required cutting to make the clearance.

I used the NAPA universal alignment tool with good results.

There was green locktite on just about everything, you should have some handy.

The biggest b!t@% was getting the exhaust out. Some bolts were replaced on my car, they were just too ugly to go back in. I also took some extra time to pressure wash the underside of the car and clean all the parts up like new, that added a couple hours at least.

The 3 bolts which hold the exhaust to the back of the transmission are a blue bit@%. If there's an easy way to get these I am all ears.

Plan on a bolt run once you have the car apart. If you can't make the run you can simply puchase the following in advance and save the trip:

2 axle bolts (you may not screw any up but the dealer had botched one on mine so..)
Any exhaust bolts you want to replace. I did all of mine.
All 6 Pressure Plate bolts
A couple extra screws/washers for the undertray shroud in case you lose one (I did)

The bolts on the bell housing should be tightened in a specific order. There are 7 of them and they are torqued starting at the top, clockwise in order as you face the rear of the engine. The top one 85Nm, The second one at 2 o'clock is 85 Nm, #3 at 3 o'clock is 85 Nm, #4 on the bottom, which is a hex nut, is 45 Nm, #5 which is the triple square is also 45Nm, #6 at 9 o'clock is 85 Nm as is number 7 which is at about 10:30.

You will need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder once you are done. It's not in the earlier post but it's essential according to every tech I talked to, no big deal, just like doing brakes, have some fluid on hand.

Finally, you are going to want jackstands and TWO jacks. One for the transmission and one for the engine. Once the transmission is loose it's not that heavy and you should be able to muscle it out and back in.

One trick I used that's worth noting is I used 5 different paint pens to tag the bolts and the holes on the transmission (and various other places). There are at least 3 sizes and a dot of paint will save you some frustration later as some are a little tough to get at. I use red after torquing each bolt as a visual reminder it's been torqued.

Not counting time for lunch and running around for tools and bolts it took about 9 hours, maybe 10.

The new clutch is much lighter than the old one. I have the OEM pressure plate and a Kevlar friction disk and I don't know if it's the new bearings or the nice clean surfaces on everything but the clutch is much less "heavy" than before.

Anyone else notice that in their clutch job?

:ms

09-17-2009, 04:08 AM	#17
mightysquirrel Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Northwest Posts: 7	I just did my 02 today and there are a few things missing from the otherwise excellent posting Franco pasted earlier. One is that some transmissions will have a 10mm (or 8mm?) triple square in the lower driver side of the transmission instead of the 16mm that's found throughout. I had to go digging for one and the one's at the local auto parts store required cutting to make the clearance. I used the NAPA universal alignment tool with good results. There was green locktite on just about everything, you should have some handy. The biggest b!t@% was getting the exhaust out. Some bolts were replaced on my car, they were just too ugly to go back in. I also took some extra time to pressure wash the underside of the car and clean all the parts up like new, that added a couple hours at least. The 3 bolts which hold the exhaust to the back of the transmission are a blue bit@%. If there's an easy way to get these I am all ears. Plan on a bolt run once you have the car apart. If you can't make the run you can simply puchase the following in advance and save the trip: 2 axle bolts (you may not screw any up but the dealer had botched one on mine so..) Any exhaust bolts you want to replace. I did all of mine. All 6 Pressure Plate bolts A couple extra screws/washers for the undertray shroud in case you lose one (I did) The bolts on the bell housing should be tightened in a specific order. There are 7 of them and they are torqued starting at the top, clockwise in order as you face the rear of the engine. The top one 85Nm, The second one at 2 o'clock is 85 Nm, #3 at 3 o'clock is 85 Nm, #4 on the bottom, which is a hex nut, is 45 Nm, #5 which is the triple square is also 45Nm, #6 at 9 o'clock is 85 Nm as is number 7 which is at about 10:30. You will need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder once you are done. It's not in the earlier post but it's essential according to every tech I talked to, no big deal, just like doing brakes, have some fluid on hand. Finally, you are going to want jackstands and TWO jacks. One for the transmission and one for the engine. Once the transmission is loose it's not that heavy and you should be able to muscle it out and back in. One trick I used that's worth noting is I used 5 different paint pens to tag the bolts and the holes on the transmission (and various other places). There are at least 3 sizes and a dot of paint will save you some frustration later as some are a little tough to get at. I use red after torquing each bolt as a visual reminder it's been torqued. Not counting time for lunch and running around for tools and bolts it took about 9 hours, maybe 10. The new clutch is much lighter than the old one. I have the OEM pressure plate and a Kevlar friction disk and I don't know if it's the new bearings or the nice clean surfaces on everything but the clutch is much less "heavy" than before. Anyone else notice that in their clutch job? :ms Last edited by mightysquirrel; 09-17-2009 at 12:26 PM.