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JAAY · 08-22-2007, 12:58 PM

Page 2 there were too many photos for 1 post..

Piping..
First pipe to do, which I figured out the real hard way is the boost tube coming from the outlet of the charger. This fitting that was supplied to me just would not work out. I cut the fitting they gave me in about 1/2 and then mounted that to the charger with one of many hose clamps for the day. It mounts facing straight up. Now it needed something in it to extend to the next piece of piping. I had some old intercooler piping laying around from a previouse project that was the correct diameter to fit inside the supplied fitting. I cut that down to about 6inches and fit it inside the first fitting and clamped that on. Then with another piece of older soft intercooler piping I cut that to around 6 inches and fastened that to the pipe that I just installed. At this point you now have to start the intake part of the install. I started from the charger inlet with what looks to be a 4inch elbow that faces up also. It is easier to stuff a boxster into a 911. This took a long super flat, flathead screw driver to finally get it on. That just gets secured with a hose clamp. Next you drop down the next intake pipe. There was no fitment problems here. Just drop it down from the top of the engine bay and line it up and hose clamp it. The next intake pipe needs some persuasion, I think I spelt that wrong, anyway, it goes right under one of the wholes for the engine cover clips. It will fit no problem you just have to not be afraid of pushing it in there. That also gets attached with a rubber elbo and some hose clamps. I now went back to the boost tubes. There is only one flattend looking tube that fits in this spot from the top of the outlet tube to the the throttle body. If you did not do it already you have to remove the black tube that goes from some R2D2 looking thing to the throttlebody. The throttlebody end gets capped off with a supplied cap and a hose clamp and the other end, R2D2 :P, gets a rubber hose that is suppled and that goes to a port on the intake pipe. It is very easy to see. Back to the boost tube. The rubber elbow that goes to the throttle body is a pain in the ace to get on there. It is just the wrong size. You have to somewhat shoehorn it on there with brute force and a flathead screwdriver. Once you have that on tight you can go ahead and finish the last boost tube off. The intake pipe is the last big pipe. It is part of the Evo intake kit I think. I used my stock intake because I just sold my Evo intake setup. I just had to cut about 4inches off the evo looking pipe and joined that with my stock airbox with a rubber coupling I had laying around from turbonetics. You need a good selection of car crap/leftovers laying around to get this done. One more thing to install.
Some shots of the piping installed and you can see the air pump relocation hose and the relocation itself. These shots were also from the previouse install. Mine looks the same.

Diverter Valve.
It fits betweent the boost tube and the intake pipe right above the charger. Just 2 rubber hoses and 2 clamps and it is on. No biggie. You have to run a vacuum line for the diverter valve. I got my source from the fpr Fuel Pressure Regulator. I used a vacuum T and some vacuum tubing, about 4.5feet. I just ran it across the motor and tied it to the throttle cable and attached it to the diverter valve.
This is just a photo of the cool new vaccumm line i used from the hardware store. It is silicone. Also a photo of the diverter valve on the intake pipe that goes into the charger.

Re-install the new headers with new gaskets

Things to mention
The charger was filled with oil already
I bought the kit used from one of our members. He has been a huge help and so has his mechanic.
I did this with only photos to go by
I left out alot of the trouble shooting of order to do all this in
12 hours total time.
I still have to send the computer out to get reflashed. I did start the car and it runs fine. I did not drive it... yet.... I will take it down the block tomorrow for a test. I was assured that I was able to drive it if I don't beat it or break 5k rpm.

Sorry for the long post, bad spelling, poor structure and whatever else is on your mind.

Photos and Video soon
J

08-22-2007, 12:58 PM	#9
JAAY Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: shoreham, ny Posts: 1,619	Page 2 there were too many photos for 1 post.. Piping.. First pipe to do, which I figured out the real hard way is the boost tube coming from the outlet of the charger. This fitting that was supplied to me just would not work out. I cut the fitting they gave me in about 1/2 and then mounted that to the charger with one of many hose clamps for the day. It mounts facing straight up. Now it needed something in it to extend to the next piece of piping. I had some old intercooler piping laying around from a previouse project that was the correct diameter to fit inside the supplied fitting. I cut that down to about 6inches and fit it inside the first fitting and clamped that on. Then with another piece of older soft intercooler piping I cut that to around 6 inches and fastened that to the pipe that I just installed. At this point you now have to start the intake part of the install. I started from the charger inlet with what looks to be a 4inch elbow that faces up also. It is easier to stuff a boxster into a 911. This took a long super flat, flathead screw driver to finally get it on. That just gets secured with a hose clamp. Next you drop down the next intake pipe. There was no fitment problems here. Just drop it down from the top of the engine bay and line it up and hose clamp it. The next intake pipe needs some persuasion, I think I spelt that wrong, anyway, it goes right under one of the wholes for the engine cover clips. It will fit no problem you just have to not be afraid of pushing it in there. That also gets attached with a rubber elbo and some hose clamps. I now went back to the boost tubes. There is only one flattend looking tube that fits in this spot from the top of the outlet tube to the the throttle body. If you did not do it already you have to remove the black tube that goes from some R2D2 looking thing to the throttlebody. The throttlebody end gets capped off with a supplied cap and a hose clamp and the other end, R2D2 :P, gets a rubber hose that is suppled and that goes to a port on the intake pipe. It is very easy to see. Back to the boost tube. The rubber elbow that goes to the throttle body is a pain in the ace to get on there. It is just the wrong size. You have to somewhat shoehorn it on there with brute force and a flathead screwdriver. Once you have that on tight you can go ahead and finish the last boost tube off. The intake pipe is the last big pipe. It is part of the Evo intake kit I think. I used my stock intake because I just sold my Evo intake setup. I just had to cut about 4inches off the evo looking pipe and joined that with my stock airbox with a rubber coupling I had laying around from turbonetics. You need a good selection of car crap/leftovers laying around to get this done. One more thing to install. Some shots of the piping installed and you can see the air pump relocation hose and the relocation itself. These shots were also from the previouse install. Mine looks the same. Diverter Valve. It fits betweent the boost tube and the intake pipe right above the charger. Just 2 rubber hoses and 2 clamps and it is on. No biggie. You have to run a vacuum line for the diverter valve. I got my source from the fpr Fuel Pressure Regulator. I used a vacuum T and some vacuum tubing, about 4.5feet. I just ran it across the motor and tied it to the throttle cable and attached it to the diverter valve. This is just a photo of the cool new vaccumm line i used from the hardware store. It is silicone. Also a photo of the diverter valve on the intake pipe that goes into the charger. Re-install the new headers with new gaskets Things to mention The charger was filled with oil already I bought the kit used from one of our members. He has been a huge help and so has his mechanic. I did this with only photos to go by I left out alot of the trouble shooting of order to do all this in 12 hours total time. I still have to send the computer out to get reflashed. I did start the car and it runs fine. I did not drive it... yet.... I will take it down the block tomorrow for a test. I was assured that I was able to drive it if I don't beat it or break 5k rpm. Sorry for the long post, bad spelling, poor structure and whatever else is on your mind. Photos and Video soon J __________________ 996 3.4 engine with 2.7 986 5speed transmission Ebay Headers, Fabspeed high flow cats, JIC Cross, IPD Plenum, H&R Coilovers, B&M Short Shifter, AEM Uego Gauge Type Analog, Apexi S-AFC Select, 987 air box, Litronics, 2000 Tails and side markers, painted center console, 18" 987 S-Wheels, GT3 Front bumper with splitter.