Quote:
|
Originally Posted by racer_d
Ideally, i believe, you would want to "dolly" tow Ass up to limit the wear on half-shafts/cv joints/transmission. However, this would mean you would need to remove the sterring lock on the column so the wheels could turn. Same would be needed for a safe flat tow as well. Plus, you would want/need some additional lights and signage to alert other travelers that the car is "in tow".
Not sure what year boxster you have, but lets guess that the average value of a used Boxster is maybe $25K, it sure seems stupid to "cheap out" on how you will haul it around, especially as it gets pounded by road grime, rocks, garbage etc that the motorhome spits up.
|
Agreed on everything except the steering lock. The steering wheel has to be either locked or restained somehow if you tow one "ass up" on a tow dolly.
Think of a "normal" car that gets towed ass down (fronts on dolly, rears on pavement). The rears do not turn, and don't need to turn, to be towed on a dolly. The fronts are also locked in this mode, as the dolly has a rotating plate that the strapped-down wheels sit on. No matter if they are fronts or rears. That's also why a tow dolly is nearly impossible to back up. It's double jointed... both the tongue and the swivel plate swing side-to-side. Can you say "jack-knife"?
The only thing free-wheeling steering would do when the fronts are on the ground and the rears are on the dolly, would be to let the steering go to full lock one way or the other. Then your tow car would be "crabbing" down the road while you try to travel straight ahead!!
