Pedro Bar / Stabilizer bar etc
 

So, this thing has many names... I´m referring to the bar some have used to connect the two rear underframes.

I´m about to make my own right now, but when I start to think of it, the main side forces will clearly go through the LCA and into the front leg of the underframe, this leg is already connected to the other side via a oem bar. The Pedro bar etc are connecting the two rear legs of the underframe, those keep track of the toe-link/track rod. No major forces should go through this one I believe, and if so the effect would be a bit more toe out, not primarily reducing camber.

I guess many things can be percieved as great when they are new and all the hype, but now a few years after what do you guys think of this one. Is it really a percievable improvement, or just adding more weight?

Do they work? Yes. What would an optimum unit look like, this with Heim joints are both ends so it can be preloaded, and this one includes chassis tie down loops as well:

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-t1zc...713858.JPG?c=1

@JFP, that sure looks line a great solution.

So, du you agree that it's likely the toe rather than camber that is more stable with this bar? Would love to hear more about the percived effect, I know that there is a lot written already, but what I'm after is the present view, a bit after the "hype" or how I should put it.

Depending upon the vehicle, compound of tire, and the load on the chassis, both toe and camber can be impacted to differing degrees and at various times.

Would this be of any practical use in a street and mild HPDE use case? Or would this be geared more towards dedicated track vehicles?

It is a definite plus on track cars where it is allowed by the rules, but its presence can also be felt on street cars. You are stopping the rear uprights from moving around as the chassis flexes.

Had one, made elsewhere, for several years. Perceptible difference at the time.

Yes to all the above.

Instead of dropping $100, I bought a 3/4" square x24" long bar of extruded aluminum, knocked out the OEM bolts, and drilled the bar to fit. I positioned mine above the diagonal braces so that it's completely out of sight.

If you only drive in a straight line you will never feel a difference. If you push it around corners though (even spirited daily drives) the difference is definitely there. It's hard to describe except to say that the rear end "feels more planted" and with less flex. For $30 it was a great mod.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Rod End Supply has everything you need to make this yourself with no fabrication needed. Just pointing out a resource I've used. I have no relationship with them.

I use the Pedro bar. Yes it makes a difference especially under braking

I use the Pedro bar on my CSS. Works great and is an easy DIY.

A couple of questions for people who have put in a stabilizer- would it be better to install while the wheels have contact (e.g. wheel ramps) or totally off the ground (quick jack lift)?
Did you get your car's rear alignment checked afterwards?
Thanks for any help!

If you are using the type with adjustable Heim joints and preloading the bar, it should be done with the car fully resting on the tires. If you are using the fixed type, it doesn't matter.

We have not seen the need to realign the cars after putting in the adjustable type.

I installed a fixed stabilizer bar with the wheels off the ground, and I would recommend an alignment. If you manage to install the bar and everything stays lined up (aka you are easily able to reinstall the bolts) then you may be able to skip an alignment. When I installed mine I couldn't get one of the bolts back in even though nothing had visible shifted during the install. I had to have the place that did the alignment install that one bolt.

I have a Pedro bar I can’t seem to move. Asking 50$ plus shipping. 40$ for local pick up and I’d probably help install if needed.

Could you share a photo of this? It's hard to visualize exactly what you did, but I am interested in trying it.

Is that going to fit the 98 Tiptronic? I believe, last time I checked, Pedro didn't have a bar for the tip.

Confirm? Could be interested. Thanks! :cheers:

Yes, I'll get a pic of it tomorrow

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

So, I can report that I put in a 20x30mm bar, this is a bit too wide and it hits the exhaust just a bit. Just FYI :-)

Here are the pics. Like I said, it's quite concealed. It runs on top of the sheet metal brace, connecting the two rear most bolt holes on the diagonal braces. It tucks under the exhaust on either side (my exhaust is totally custom though so I can't speak to OEM setups) and then bolts drop down from the top and go through the bar, the sheet metal brace, and diagonal brace) and secured via a nut on the bottom side. The oem bolts here just knock out from the bottom-up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f94c555b3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cd304e328c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...53b3e6c09b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

For strut bars up top I have the preload as tension down here I think I have compression is this correct? I put in bars in all three locations many years ago....and don't recall what I did

The lower bar prevents outward movement of the uprights, so the bar above is under tension.

Can you explain your reasoning behind this more? It's the opposite of what I'd expect geometrically given the location at the bottom of the suspension. When cornering hard the major force is from the tire on the outside of the turn pushing to the centerline of the car, which would tend to compress the bar. Wouldn't this compression cause any bar pre-loaded with tension to just go slack in a turn, and then do nothing at all? Pre-loading with compression should be necessary to prevent suspension deflection in turns.

It makes sense to me to apply tension pre-load to something at the top of the strut, and the opposite to the bottom of the strut, to counteract chassis flex in cornering, which is a twisting force on the entire suspension assembly (clockwise on the right, counter-clockwise on the left of the car).

Find a diagram of the car's resuspension set up; the tops of the uprights are tied together by the car's chassis, while the bottoms are not. It isn't the chassis that is flexing, it is the uprights themselves that are moving. Under hard turn in, the inside strut is pulled outwards while the outside upright is pushed inwards because neither is really firmly attached to anything substantial. Tying one to the other helps reduce the deflection impact on both struts, and slightly preloading the tie bar (read tightening) increases that load sharing and reduces deflection, and the resulting tire scrubbing, for both uprights.

https://www.planet-9.com/attachments...ion-jpg.53899/

Ideally, you would run a triangulation bar upwards on a 45 degree angle from the bottom of the uprights toward the centerline of the car, where they would connect to a bar running across from one side of the car to the other, which would prevent movement in any direction; only problem is that the triangulation bars with have to run through the transmission, which happens to be in the way. So going across underneath is the next best alternative.

If we imagine your described ideal dual diagonal bar setup, the outside strut diagonal will be compressed in a turn, and the inside diagonal bar would be under tension...

So if we are using a single bar due to spacial limitations, having it under tension would seem to better control deflection on the inside, and having it under compression would seem to better control deflection on the outside. (edit: note that these are in direct conflict, so we have to decide which side is more important to stabilize!)

Now, consider that a Boxster basically unloads the inside rear wheel at maximum cornering, so all of the force is really on the outside wheel. Given this situation, wouldn't a compression pre-load be what you want - by prioritizing the correct geometry for the more heavily loaded side?

edit: Also, since the forces are higher on the outside and we we would expect the deflection here to be much greater, in a turn the bottom of the suspension sides will get closer together (compress together), because only the outside suspension has enough force to really move a lot. This suggests that a bar pre-loaded with tension would actually exasperate the suspension flex issue, causing further increased flex!

Only problem is it doesn't seem do that, preloading slightly tight tends to settle the car more; preloading outwards doesn't have the same effect. We have had customers play with these things a lot (give a track rat something adjustable, and they will play with it), and the general consensus is that running the tie bar slightly tight at rest gives you are more settled and predictable corner exit. Granted, a lot of that is seat of the pants, but drivers that feel more confident based upon how the car feels to them tend to be faster.

It's hard to argue with real world experience, but that is really surprising and confusing. I wonder what is really happening here?

Perhaps rather than preventing the cornering deflection that normally occurs in a stock car without the brace, having the brace causes it to always be "fully deflected," even in a straight line, so you don't get the abrupt transition/shift that makes the car feel less stable.

I'd also expect the factory alignment to anticipate the shift caused by the cornering load... so if compressive loading stabilizes the suspension better, perhaps you'd only get the benefit by also altering the suspension alignment such that it's no longer pre-compensated as heavily for this shift/distortion?

You have to remember that some people are running the nonadjustable solid bar, and they say they can feel the difference on the street, just like the adjustable bar cars, and where the suspension loads are considerably less.

As for factory alignment expectations, I would seriously doubt they factored in what happens when someone with 500 hours of track seat time and R compound tires hit the apex. The factory only concerns themselves with the more pedestrian, everyday driver loads.

My comments were in the context of considering adding a bar to my own car (completely stock, street use).

Wont argue with experience, however it surprises me. Nevertheless can we agree that the forces are higher on the outmost side, and that they mainly affect toe? Why I see it this way is that the subframe obviously have two "legs" the forward one holding the LCA is already tied together, this takes the main cornering force, the rear leg holds the toe link so...