Quote:
Originally Posted by McSpooney
So I think it failed the vacuum test. I guess googling this test makes me think its a sticking valve and or bad valve guides... but maybe It would be best for you to see the video. The needle starts out a little wobbly... then goes crazy flying back and forth from 22 to 16 in hg... eventually stabilizes. It seems to do it when the car is idling very low... at 680 per durametric, with a target idle at 680. One caveat though: I ended up tapping into the right behind the throttlebody where it branches off for the AOS and that fuel tank purge valve. I have never seen a fuel pressure regulator on my car so couldn't really tap there. Keep in mind mine is 2003 3-chain, doesn't show a regulator in the katalog.
I also did the vacuum test to see if the cat was the culprit... vacuum didn't seem to drop when holding 2k rpm. I also visually inspected the cat... with a little boroscope though. It looked fine.
Putting in a link to a video of the vacuum gauge. The needle starts freaking out at around 25 sec, but eventually calms down at around 3 minutes. Engine was warm already from previous running, but only on about 1 minute before i started the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzao8NScuJE
I'm a little confused if this is a valve issue. I really hope it isn't. But I roughly felt each valve as I installed... clearances felt consistently good at install. Unless this is an issue with the intake valves, but those appeared to never have been bent and just seemed to be 100%
I'm actually a little familiar with verifying cat function. I would typically look for the post-cat O2s to see if the wave function flat-lines after the cats get to temp and I'm cruising. Right now I'm using my desktop for durametric though lol. I'll have to devise a way to check the sensor reading while the car is moving. The exhaust smells pretty bad btw. Makes me think cats aren't doing so hot, but also makes me think maybe the injectors.
I replaced the ignition coils... and as expected... that was a waste. Car runs exactly the same. Maybe fuel injectors?
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So a couple of things.
First you should really hold the gauge in you hand or find a way to isolate it from the car. I know you laid it on the car so you could video but the needle will pick up vibrations from the car and skew needle action.
Second: video or post a picture of your hookup so I know it is correct.
Third: It is great the way you tested just letting it idle and giving me a good long view of the gauge.
Your probably the first person to do it correctly. LOL
When you research vacuum testing info on the web (youtube) you have to remember most all info is for testing "single cam" engines.
The Boxster is a four cam so needle action (if any) is going to be a little different and much harder to interpret.
So the bad news:
Looks like you have a valve train issue.
Possibly one or more lifters acting up.
I think I hear a ticking sound in your video but not sure.
The reason I think you have lifter issues is from the needle action.
If you watch the needle it is moving in a very specific way.
it is not bad at first just drifting between 20-21 that is not bad.
Then it goes crazy as you say but in a very set way.
Then it settles down again after a while.
Like a lifter or valve sticking.
Then correcting itself.
Please remember all this is an educated "guess" at best.
Diagnosing issues remotely is very very difficult.
But what I am seeing points to valve train issues.
You could do the test again with the Durametric hooked up and see if your misfire count comes and goes when the needle on the vacuum gauge starts acting up.
Also when the needle starts ticking go to your exhaust and listen you will probably hear a difference in your exhaust.
So run a fuel trims scan with your car fully warmed up and lets see your RAKT and FRO's FRU's what ever your other fuel trims are.
Do the RAKT at idle.
Do the other fuel trim at 2000 RPM.
For Cat function you need to get the car good and warm like a 20 minute drive.
Then hook up the durametric and just hold your RPM at 2200-2500 for 60-90 seconds and watch the post cat voltage. if everything is good post cat voltage will stay above .450mv best to see it around .750mv mostly a flat line on the graph as long as you hold the RPM steady.