99 stock strut/coilover help
 

Ok I've been reading alot about the strut/coilovers for my P-car but I'm also getting overwhelmed with what to buy.....My front right strut has just started leaking at 47K miles....Also all 4 bump stops have fallen off along time ago.

So I just do some spirited around town driving only and I need someone to recommend what they think would be a good strut to replace the stock ones.

I want to keep the same height as stock and just want a nice comfortable ride as close to stock but hopefully with a better than stock strut.

I am a big fan of Koni FSD, now renamed as Koni Special Active. I'm running them on my Boxster which is back to street duty and I also have a lot of track time on them (with USA M030 springs and sway bars, and then Tarett swaybars). I think (haven't priced them in a while) they may be more affordable than OEM Bilstein replacement struts.

Things to replace while you are in there replacing struts - bump stops (as you know :) ) but also check the strut top mount rubber for cracking, on mine the fronts were cracked but the backs were OK so I only replaced the fronts. The rest of the stuff can be reused, and check the front strut top bearings, if they feel gritty you can clean and re-grease them but if they feel smooth you could probably keep them as is.

Cautions: Whatever you do, don't forget to reinstall both big cupped washers that go around the strut top rubber or you will be in for a bad day when the strut punches through...

I was looking at those koni special actives when I was doing my research on struts....So your saying the stock struts on my car are Bilsteins.....Didn't know that.

I will take a look at all the stuff you have mentioned....And after watching several Youtube videos on this I understand what you are referring too about the cupped washers.

Obviously I have some more research and video watching too do before I tackle this but with help from people like you giving me advice I might just get this done.....Wish me luck.

I've swapped the suspension on my car several times and it was the first car I ever worked on in my life, if I can do it, anyone can (but it was hard though, but doable)

Worn out OEM to Ksport, then Ksport back to OEM with Koni FSD, then to PSS9, then on stands for a year after selling the PSS9, then finally back to OEM with Koni and back on the road. Never again :-) but just once wasn't too bad :,-)

I work on all my own vehicles but that only means I have worked on USA made vehicles and this is my first German made vehicle for me that is if you don't include back in the 60's & 70's alot of my friends had VW bugs but all I ever did was ride in then and not work on then.

I'm thinking of going coilover instead of getting a Koni shock then buying all the other ancillary parts so that means buying a new shock all new small parts and putting that all together with a 20 year old coil spring.....And I'm still going to end up with a non-adjustable strut.....If I can find me a coilover for around 350 to 400 I think that is the direction I might go......Tell me what you think about this brilliant idea of mine ?

I have a question for you concerning the rear strut....Which is the best way to replace it by taking off that axle nut(The one with the 340 ft-lbs of torque) or leaving it alone and pulling out the CV unit from the transmission ?

The first time I did a suspension I took this axle nut off because I was also doing wheel bearings.

Every other time I used a custom spring compressor that I borrowed from a friend, that let me take out the rear struts without having to remove the axle nut or remove the LCA. A regular spring compressor may work especially if your original suspension is blown out and easy to compress once the spring is compressed. I think there may be a few videos out there showing shortcuts.

One I never got a chance to try would be removing the sheet metal brace and the two diagonal supports (figure 1 here), and then loosening the inner LCA, with that brace and the supports out of the way I bet that would let the LCA drop down pretty far and the strut top might slide right out :)

Hi

I changed all four of mine (130k miles) for a low mile ebay set (originals). I tested them against the ones I removed and they were significantly stronger. I already had the inner CV joints undone for the gearbox removal, so at the rear just dropped the subframes (just 2 bolts). The real challenge when I did mine was undoing the pinch bolts. Calliper bolts were also a pain with one snapping.

I would keep away from any suspension harder than standard. The standard car is jut not a stiff enough platform IMHO.

Best of luck

Berni

Taking off the shaft on the transmission side is aggravating, and getting it back on it too. the exhaust is in the way and you need turn the shafts several times etc. then you need to clean the bolts really good, loctite, clean grease from the bolt holes, turn the shafts multiple times to cross torque em up, check them for loosening up for a couple of months, etc. etc. its a PIA.
The axle nut is easier...and you dont have to remove it...just loosen it, then the toe in arm from the ball joint and the lower control arm (camber adjustment side on frame), the fork side of the forward link where it attached to the lower control arm and of course the drop link since it holds the strut in. Mark your camber placement and the wheel will be close when your done and match it back up. I didnt even remove the caliper on the rear and had enough to remove the stock strut and replace with a coilover. Loosely attach new strut up top, align wheel carrier and gently coax everything back using a floorjack. I guess a spring compressor could help a little, but I didnt need it.
first side took 1.5 hours, the second was 30 minutes.
one problem you might have is the axle stuck in the hub, it should have been coated in a good copper anti-seize, but that doesnt always happen. Dont beat your axle with a hammer, but make sure you have a HUGE drift pin and give it some solid smacks with a 5lb sledgehammer if its stuck. leave the nut on so it doesnt slip and mess up the threads. Then maybe get some anti-seize on it for next time.
coilovers for 400 is false economy, if you can even find them. The right coil for your type of driving is critical and making sure its a quality part is important also.
Godspeed has a set for 800, most are in the 1200 range (and up, way up). Do your research and choose accordingly. I went with yellowspeed and im very happy, but they are brand new.

no need to remove the braces...inner control arm, toe in ball joint and the fork connection to the LCA gave me the clearance to remove and replace strut. I did loosen the axle nut and floated the shaft back a few inches...needed that.

Thanks Tony for the info and the tip about using Yellowspeed.......I did see those Godspeeds for $840.

I just looked at the Yellowspeed coilover site and it says $1,100 but I don't see where it says for how many....So It's $1,100 for all 4 coilovers correct ?

And if I loosen the axle nut just how did you get it to the correct torque of 340 ft-lbs ?.....I myself don't have anything to get it close to that torque.

Go to utube and look up 'Burner's Cars'. Find his 'Fix 13' and go to 9:00 min. There he tells how to use standard shop tools and your weight to torque the axle nut.

Yep that's how I did mine.

Righto. it is for all 4.
The godspeeds are a risk, too inexpensive and I didnt find anyone online with a Porsche who used them. A few yellowspeed users out here on the forum, plus some Japanese tuners I know have them and like them. (these guys are good feedback because they do stupid stuff to the cambers and trick driving stunts) I think the springs are just right for street driving and have adjustable dampening, although I went with stock recommendations.

I used a torque wrench at my local shop (its huge) and got close. I takes a little bit of muscle. you can use a really strong breaker bar and impact socket (you can easily break these if it is small or a cheapo) and use your weight.
340/(your weight)= x. stand with your full weight on breaker bar "x" from the rotation of the socket. 200Lb is about 1ft and 8 inches out with bar parallel to the floor. Yahtzee!

PS, be careful not to scratch up your wheels. I wrap my sockets with colored electrical tape for the lug nuts and the axle nut.

Great responses from everybody on this topic has really helped me out.....Upon your recommendation Tony I will be buying the Yellowstone coilovers on sale for $1,100....I think coilovers are just so much better than the stock struts.

I will be doing my front struts as soon as I get the Yellowstone coilovers and then later this year or next year I will tackle the rears....Thanks again everybody who responded with all your helpful ideas.

awesome...take care with the fenders and dont scratch up your pretty paint. Donald Patterson is a principal over at yellowspeed and answers emails, so use that "in" if you need it.

Whats wrong with the Bilstien oe ones?

I put oe bilstiens on my last box when I got it. My current one just got the same treatment. Reusing the original springs will retain your ride height.

To me (I don't race) these cars handle magnificently without any need for performance dampeners or high load springs. But that's my own opinion.

at 100K, my springs were out of whack with each other. The front right spring was softer then the drivers side if I pushed on them out of the car, leading me to believe that my springs are worn out. Also, the rust...one side was covered in rust. The coilovers I put in have a "close to stock" spring rate best I can tell. they feel fine and I dont race either.

Yeah for me I just didn't want to spend the same money or less than buying the stock Bilstein struts and all the little parts that go with it then use a 20 year old spring.....And after all my research as of late for the same price I will take a coilover over a strut everytime.

The coilovers will be 100% new and adjustable for what ever ride height I need.

Just do it all at once... it's easy and you will be glad

Also you could buy a set of H&R springs that are awesome and install them with new struts for less, but would not be able to adjust ride height..
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