Engine & Trans install. Any advice?
 

I’m going to be reinstalling my engine and transmission this weekend any advice? I’ll be doing it without a lift, the cross brace is removed. I took them out separately but would rather reinstall them together.

You can install them separately or together. I’ve done both. A bit easier together since you dont have to access those hard to get at bolts at the top of the transmission. You can put your slave in place before the install as well. Don’t install you muffler until everything else is in place and functional, including the clutch bleed. Have fun! :cheers:

Just a few points to highlight:

• Getting everything in place, have the car as high as you can safely get it. You can lower the car as needed later when you are ready to jack up the engine.
• As you raise the engine and transmission, make frequent checks of the hoses, and wiring. Make sure they are in the right place, not getting crushed or stressed. Top, sides, and bottom.
• When the engine mount is near position, thread a couple bolts in to keep it aligned, but don't tighten them until the mount bracket is lifted all the way.
• After the engine and transmission are in, Light tension with a ratchet strap can be helpful when you install the braces and pan underneath.
• Pry the exhaust clamps loose (for the junctions on the 'C' pipe) before you assemble it.

for me the harbor freight hydraulic lift table is crucial. It makes engine drops and installs an absolute breeze. worth the 200 bucks.

Thanks for the advice! I’ll pick up a lift table

Quadcammer, did you use the 500lb table or 1,000lb table? the engine and trans are a little heavier than 500lbs but I'm guessing it'll work.

:cheers:

I used the 1k one, which I think is useful because the table surface is a bit larger. It allows you to put the front lip of the oil pan right against the edge of the table, which results in a lot of support for the transmission.

The 500lber might work, but i'm glad I sprung for the bigger one.

One note, if you don't have the bumper off, you'll likely need the ass end of the car way in the air.

Damn I thought you were going to save me a hundred bucks. Luckily the engine is already out so I know the car is in a good position. I removed the engine with a 200lb non-hydrolic transmission lift. Definitely not the right tool.

I generally use the top brace (cross bar) with its screw/chain hooked into the loop near the throttle body to stabilize the engine in conjunction with a regular floor jack. Table would be nice but I’ve successfully used the tools that I already own to do the job.

I also used a top brace with a chain hooked to the lift point by the throttle body to give more stability as I lifted the motor. I didn't lift the motor a huge amount as I had positioned it and lowered the car on top of the motor. I lifted the motor using a large 2x12 screwed to my jack pad. I also strapped the motor to the 2x12 pad. Between the chain hoist and the jack it was fine.

One thing also that helped me was I made some long threaded rod pieces that I screwed into the motor mount threaded holes in the body and used them as guide rods as I lifted the motor. Once lifted I unscrewed the threaded rod and installed the motor mount bolts.