I think that you'll love the new alignment. It will feel amazing to use the full width of the tire!

I used mid-30's hot (34-36 psi) with NT-01's and had great results (including two time trial track records). One of my favorite tires.

Yes it does, that first time the car really hooks up and you are like whoah!!! :cheers:

Edit: I guess I said that already a few posts up. But I get excited by it!

new nt01s aren't bad in the rain. Heavy standing water should be avoided at speed, but wet track is ok. More grip than street tires still.

In heavy rain, you will need to have your wits about you and be ready to correct NOW.

If you have a way of doing so, bring some decent street rubber if the heavy stuff is coming down.

nt01's have a good wear arrow on the side to help let you know when low is too low.

This is nice to hear.

I built a tow-hitch for my boxster, so I drag a little trailer with spare wheels, tools, chairs, etc with me. So I'll have the street tires I show-up on, and then some brand-spankin' new NT01's on the spare wheels. :dance:

I'm excited to get there with a "known" setup, instead of just driving what I had. I think that's a step in the direction of me finding some consistency and working on getting BETTER, instead of just trying to go faster.

Thanks again for all y'all's help and encouragement!

I'll send some pics. :-)

yes, 255's on all corners.

It's not going to rain!

Now THAT'S what I wanted to hear! Hahaha

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Maytag, I didn’t go out for the NASA event last weekend due for the weather but want to come down next weekend to see how the PCA event compares. I’ll bring my infrared gun and shoot tire temps in the pit for you.

And some camber plates if I can get any anodized this week.... [emoji6]

Sweet! C'mon!
I'll be in west day garage #3

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Alright, y'all who have alignments similar to mine (below) help me out here.

I noticed today that under extreme braking (end of a straight, before a slow corner) the front end would get "wiggly". I won't call it "squirrelly", cuz it didn't feel uncontrolled, but it definitely wiggled around on the brakes at the extreme.

Is this due to the zero-toe in front? Or is this a symptom of my caster being "out of spec"?

(Or, is this common with the NT01 tires? )

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Most likely toe. When under heavy braking the car squats and the weight transfers to the front tires causing toe out. If you are running square NT-01s you can really put the car on it's nose and go significantly toe-out.

Two choices:

1. Re-align and increase your toe-in F/R to eliminate the wiggle under heavy braking.

2. Adapt your driving style a bit. As you enter a heavy braking zone, squeeze the brakes a bit earlier > allow for weight transfer > go full braking >then ease out of the brakes keeping the car totally settled as you turn-in.

Both methods work, #2 tends to be quicker over time.

new tires? they can show symptoms similar to bump steer until broken in. mine did.

Dont use the brakes? Momentum car here, brakes are the devil ;)

This is what I made. Basically, I can check on just about anywhere that fairly smooth.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1572124376.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1572124393.jpg

Very nice!

Eric,
How accurate (and easy touse) is the Longacre camber/caster gauge?

I could use some expertise here, before I go have a tough conversation with my shop.

I need to make a thread detailing all of the mods I made over the winter, but I won't di that here. Suffice to say that I needed a new track alignment and 4- corner balance.

I took it to my race shop who is highly regarded in the market, and who've always been helpful. I'll be careful here not to "roll" them.... I think it was a perfect storm of crap. Short story is: they did all the work and sent me on my way without ever discovering a loose (new) ball joint and a very bad wheel bearing. I knew ot was wrong immediately when I stepped my foot into it and it turned left.... only to come back to me when I let my foot back off.

Now, whose responsibility is it to have tight ball joints and good wheel bearings when I bring it in? Mine, clearly. Yet whose responsibility is it to make sure the car is alignable (and actually aligned) before charging $600?

Anyway: I went way above and beyond making them whole on it, so save that for another thread too.

I finally got to drive it today, and I'm unhappy. It gets very "darty" at speed, especially as the butt goes over bumps. I jacked it back up ti look it all over and everything looks good and tight. So I went back to the specs.
See image below.

I was curious about the rear toe number, because the first time they did it (before discovering the bad parts) they zero'd the rear toe. But I trust these guys to know what they think makes sense, and several of them have raced boxsters in the past.

But..... here's where I go wonky:

If you look at the 2nd post, waaaay below, you see that last year they set the rear end at 3d POSITIVE, where this year they went 3d NEGATIVE. I really think they put a new guy on the rack, and he went the wrong direction. Last year's setup was AWESOME. This setup scares me over 90mph.

I'd like to hear from some of y'all with experience, mainly because I admit I don't know what a race car SHOULD feel like..... so.... maybe it's SUPPOSED to feel like the ass wants to pass.... but I don't think so.

Opinions? Expertise? I plan to go see them on monday.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...11be30e30b.jpg

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That's a weird looking alignment sheet.

WTF is mm of toe? mm measured from how far from the center of turning?

And three digits on the camber measurements?



That's a Hunter printout, but I've never seen one look like that.


The loads of caster you had last time will make a car find strait faster. Maybe try to put all that caster back into the car.