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Old 10-09-2017, 05:55 AM   #1
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A suspension refresh could be done for the following:
  • Koni FSD struts: ~$700'ish (or other struts, Bilstien OEM replacements ~$1000)
  • Front strut top mounts - $50'ish for two, Lemforder
  • Rear strut top mounts - mine were still good (I think had been replaced by PO, but would have been $200 for the pair, doesn't seem to be a cheaper aftermarket)
  • 4 New bump stops ~$80
  • 4 new sway bar bushings ~$70
  • Coffin arm: Meyle 99634105317, $94 times 4
  • Rear track arm: Amazon TRW JTC1316, $140 x2
  • Front "track" arm: 99733104301(It is right) Meyle $102 x 2
  • Sway bar drop links: ~$100 for 4
  • Rear toe arms: $~$160 for 2
  • Front tie rods: ~$160'ish for two
  • New locking nuts and hardware (strut top nuts, etc) - ~$15

$2395

You could save some money - front tie rods don't seem to wear out as much, rear toe rods, in fact the common causes for clunky and noise and floppy driving would be:

Struts (might as well do the top mounts and bump stops while in there) and rear track arm, and sway bar drop links. For $200 more might as well do the front "track" arm. $1629
  • Koni FSD struts: ~$700'ish (or other struts, Bilstien OEM replacements ~$1000)
  • Front strut top mounts - $50'ish for two, Lemforder
  • Rear strut top mounts - mine were still good (I think had been replaced by PO, but would have been $200 for the pair, doesn't seem to be a cheaper aftermarket)
  • 4 New bump stops ~$80
  • Rear track arm: Amazon TRW JTC1316, $140 x2
  • Front "track" arm: 99733104301(It is right) Meyle $102 x 2
  • Sway bar drop links: ~$100 for 4 TRW
  • New locking nuts and hardware (strut top nuts, etc) - ~$15

No clunks while driving? Skip the track arms.
Inspect the sway bar drop links - seem tight? Skip

Struts? certainly worn out after 100,000 miles. $1,045
  • Koni FSD struts: ~$700'ish (or other struts, Bilstien OEM replacements ~$1000)
  • Front strut top mounts - $50'ish for two, Lemforder
  • Rear strut top mounts - $200 for the pair, doesn't seem to be a cheaper aftermarket
  • 4 New bump stops ~$80
  • New locking nuts and hardware (strut top nuts, etc) - ~$15

Don't forget plus labor, unless you do it as a DIY. Can be done in a garage with a jack, jack stands, and "regular" tools, a good chance to boost the personal tool collection

PS sorry if it seems like I am hawking the Koni FSD, it is just what I have and so it is what I used in my examples.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:54 AM   #2
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Thanks for all of that info. Since I will not be tracking the car and I don't drive aggressively I probably don't need to do the whole thing. I'm looking for comfort and tightness coming through the wheel. Is that correct?

One problem is that I want to go with OEM though because my experience with Bilsteins and Koni's is that they are set up from the factory stiffer than factory struts. Talking to a Koni tech last month on putting their adjustable shock on a Z4, he said that the lowest/softest setting was still firmer than the OEM shock.

From both of your pricing estimates it looks like I can do struts, mounts, and bushings for around $1,500 + labor. I went through this with a Volvo V70 once and it was determined that they were Boge shocks. Do you know what kind the Boxster used from new?
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:10 AM   #3
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The stock struts are Bilsteins. I am positive they are NOT the B6 or B8 models; I think the B4 is very close.
BILSTEIN B4 OE Replacement
Your original struts have a couple of dabs of paint on them... these will help ID exactly what's on your car.
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.fro View Post
The stock struts are Bilsteins. I am positive they are NOT the B6 or B8 models; I think the B4 is very close.
BILSTEIN B4 OE Replacement
Your original struts have a couple of dabs of paint on them... these will help ID exactly what's on your car.
I'm going to take it for another drive this afternoon. Can you describe what you mean by a couple of dabs of paint. Will I be able to see them without jacking the car up or taking a wheel off; neither of which I can do.
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jborchel View Post
I'm looking for comfort and tightness coming through the wheel. Is that correct?
Yes, but its all a matter of degree.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jborchel View Post
Do you know what kind the Boxster used from new?
The Bilstein B4's are the closest to stock.
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