Hi all, new here, old problem.... Snap!
 

The weather in the UK is pleasant and dry, so i thought I'd get some jobs done as I have no garage....
Oil change - check, filters changed - check..... Rear anti roll bar bushes, driver side - check, nearside - snap!!! Broke the bolt off in the housing.... Any thoughts as to the best way to remove what is now a stud? I can't get two nuts on to try that trick......
All help appreciated!

Akin...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c6d8d3e05.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d33f85dd93.jpg

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Probably a bolt extractor.

Use an easyout. Drill into the center of the bolt shank insert the easyout and turn. Check at your local auto part store for them.

Have you tried vice grips? Sounds silly bud with the head off and the tension now off it should be a lot easier. You're going into aluminum so the other option would be to heat it up with a torch from lowes and then vice grip it out. The aluminum and steel will expand at different rates and help free it. Good luck.

See if you can get some penetrating oil in there. Try the type of bolt extractor that puts a nut or socket cap over the threads and has internal left hand threads so it screws onto the stud as you turn it counterclockwise to extract the stud. It looks like there is enough threads there to use this type and avoid drilling. Is the material the bolt goes into aluminum? I wouldn't use heat if that is aluminum, since it doesn't change color as it gets hot, it just goes from solid to liquid. Steel will turn orange as it gets hot. This is from someone who learned this the hard way a long time ago! Put a dab of anti-seize on the bolts before putting them back in too.

Do they have Lowe's in the UK? :)

+1 on using an easy out. Been there, done that.

I believe that the bolt is bolted into a welded nut (not aluminum) and what truegearhead is recommending: Use penetrating oil (soak it for a couple of days..), then applying some heat and vise grips has worked out for me a few times before.

Good luck!

Cut a slot into the protruding bolt with a dremel tool and a cutting disc. Use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the screw. If that fails drill the center through with a tiny drill bit 1/8 or less. Being off center a little bit is a benefit. Continue with larger bits until you're cutting into the threads on one side a little. Use a cold chisel and hammer to strike the protruding part of the bolt in the direction you wish the screw to turn. If all fails at that point then use the easy out. Easy outs can work, but if you snap one off in a drill hole you have a bigger problem.

Penetrating oil over night or longer also can be a life saver.

This should work:

https://www.grainger.com/product/2HLG9?gclid=CLWzgIaDstMCFR2ewAod8aoDiA&cm_mmc=PPC: GOOGLEPLAA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehicle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Mechanical-_-2HLG9&AL!2966!3!166591513365!!!s!61865531738!&s_kw cid=AL!2966!3!166591513365!!!s!61865531738!&ef_id= WPghvAAABfuS8GpB:20170420024932:s

https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/..._AS01?$zmmain$

Thanks for your help one and all, will attack it again today, having let it marinade in wd40 overnight.... Start low tech, (molegrips, chisel, punch,) and work up from there....

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PB blaster or liquid wrench works better as WD-40 does not work well as a penetrating oil. Funny (and scary) enough, starting fluid works quickly as a penetrating oil. Be careful with starting fluid, plenty of ways to start fires and snuff yourself with ether.

Heat is your friend for this. If it broke off with a stub on it, get to a weld shop and have them weld a nut onto it. The heat of welding and the hex from the nut allow for a great grip and easy removal. If you are heating with a torch at home, apply heat to the bracket not the bolt. You want the hole to grow larger to try and break the bond.