Help removing cv joint bolts
 

I am in the process of removing the engine, and for the life of me, I can't "Loosen and remove the 6 cap head bolts holding the inner CV joints to the differential. "
The rubber boot is in the way. I can't push the boot in enough to get the 8mm hex to fit into any of the bolts.
Any suggestions?

i use a tool set from Lowes that has a ball type allen head that allows you to angle the tool into the socket head and still get good purchase.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-Piece-3-8-in-Drive-Hex-Driver-Socket-Set/3387798

I just left the e-brake off so I could spin the wheel. I found the easiest position for removal of each to be about 5 o'clock for the drivers (left) side and 7 o'clock for the passenger (right side). Remove the bolt at 5 o'clock, then spin the wheel to get the next bolt to that position.

The set I used had really long bits that could sneak past the boot. And I think had the ball end too.

You need just a long hex bit and best is a very long ratchet extension. I have a 750mm !/2" extension. Easy to do the cv joint hex bolts.

Hope you have the right tools for the rest of the engine removement.

Regards, Markus

This is what I do too.

Off to Lowes tomorrow. Thanks!

The final trick is reassembly
1. the Oeticker clamps- see Pelican for diy
2. zero grease in the threaded holes of the joint at the gearbox end and mild thread locker on the new bolts. You will believe the need when you read what happens when these bolts work loose because of sloppy/greasy re-installation.

....and a retorque check at 500 miles doesn't hurt either....

If you install the bolts clean and with a dab of medium LocTite, retorquing them is not only unnecessary, it is detrimental. As we cannot realistically ask a customer to bring every car back in 500 miles, proper installation is critical to prevent a job from coming back on a flatbed.

Removing cv bolts
 

Hi , I found the quickest and easiest method was to undo the metal jubilee type clamp on the rubber CV boot. slide the boot back a little way, then you have direct access to the bolts. they are very tight and may need a rattler to undo. Added bonus check CV for grease.
Brian

Unnecessary. Use long Allan keys and rotate the axle to expose the bolts. Should not take more than 5 min. per side to disassemble.

It should be an Oetiker clamp or low profile band clamp.

Understood.

Given that the my CV boot R/R was my first, and access to a lift is not an issue, I feel it best to check my work!

All was good so perhaps it wasn't necessary but given I'd read a few threads with folks dropping a half shaft, I felt better after the check.